Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Uchitel via the Eastern Ridge.

Climbing Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Uchitel 4550 m. Presumed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent. Route character — ridge. Route height difference — 700 m. Route length — 1700 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 1550 m, II — 150 m,
3. Average steepness: main part of the route — 30°.
4. Pitons left on the route: total — 0;

A. S. Komeroro 4280 m

Pic. 1. General view of the Susamyr massif. From right to left the peaks are:

• 1st Zapadnaya (West)
• 2nd Zapadnaya (West)
• Pik Malysh
• Tsentralnaya (Central)
• Snezhnaya (Snowy)
• Ravnotsvetnaya (Evenly Colored) Taken from the north from the Karak-too glacier.

14-700

Pik Moldova

Moldova is one of the peaks of the lateral spur between the eastern branch of Grigoryev Glacier and the rear wall of Chon-Turasu cirque. It drops to Chon-Turasu with a sheer 1000-meter wall: a sharp pyramid covered with snow rises 100–150 m above it, and the peak faces the branch of Grigoryev Glacier with a steep snow-ice wall with rock outcrops in the lower part. On both sides from the peak, the lateral spur has a gentle snow-ice ridge, turning into BS стена (Big Wall) peak to the southeast, and into a fork with Черный (Chernij) (to the northwest) and Moldova (to the northeast) passes:

• Черный (Chernij) (to the northwest)
• Moldova (to the northeast) The ascent to the peak is done along the right slope of Chon-Turasu (past Скала (Skala) and Снежная Трапеция (Sneznaja Trapecija) bivouac sites), along the eastern branch of the glacier to Moldova Pass and further directly along the ridge to the peak. All ascents can be done in one day.

Pik Molodezhnyj

The peak is located in the Main Ridge and is part of the massif that bounds the middle part of Исследователей (Issledovatelei) Glacier from the south. Pik Molodezhnyj is completely covered with an ice carapace; the peak stands out from the massif. There are two characteristic rock outcrops on the lower part of the northern slope:

• the lower one is long, like a retaining wall, separating the glacier flowing down from the peak from Исследователей (Issledovatelei) Glacier;

I. High-altitude category

2. Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge
3. Peak Neru via the left part of the northeast face
4. Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain – 2430 m, route length – 2960 m Average steepness of the main part of the route – 55° (4300–6744), including 360 m of 6th category of difficulty
6. Pitons hammered: rock 65, bolts – 0, protection 27,

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude.
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan.
3. Ascent route — Peak Neru – Western Pobeda.
4. Complexity category — 6B (approximate).
5. Ascent characteristics: route length — approx. 10450 m. height difference — 2750 m. average steepness up to the northern shoulder of Peak Neru — 60°.

p. Korona (3rd) 4700 m

Report

Of the joint team

of Tomsk, Kemerovo regions and St. Petersburg on the ascent to p. Korona (3rd) 4700 m via the western glacier "3B", (sl)

Participants:

Temerev I.M., Suzdaltsev E.E., Kashevnil A.A.

I. Ascent Details

Krasnodar Region Alpinism Federation

Russian Alpinism Championship

TECHNICAL AND ALTITUDE CLASS

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF PIK KOCHEVNIKOV 3460 m VIA THE CENTER OF THE NORTH-WEST WALL "STENA TENEY" (SHADOW WALL), ACCOMPLISHED BY THE TEAM OF RPO "Krasnodar Region Alpinism Federation" presumably 6A category. FIRST ASCENT Foygel M. R. Lange A. S. Sushko D. S. 2022

MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF KRASNODAR REGION

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT PIK KOCHEVNIKOV 3460 m VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE "A20", CARRIED OUT BY THE TEAM OF THE REGIONAL PUBLIC ORGANIZATION "MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF KRASNODAR REGION" presumably 4B cat. diff. FIRST ASCENT Foygel M. R. Sushko D. S. 2022

Table of Contents

Table of Contents – 2