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M21. Gvandra East — Main (combined route, 3A cat. of diff., p/p L. Chasovnikovs, 1937) See routes M14, M16, M18–M20.

• when descending from the Eastern peak via route M16, it should be taken into account that the description is made in the opposite direction, and all gendarmes will be overcome not on ascent, but on descent;
• in bad weather or in fog, descending from the Main peak, one can lose orientation and go to the right earlier from the upper plateau of Gvand — dry. There is a danger of going to very steep slopes with large crevices and, most importantly, to the southern slopes of the ridge from Gvandra Main. These slopes, going in the direction of the False Myrdy pass, end in a hanging icefall. To

Since many get lost on the route, I decided to write an addition to the description. The ledge on which "many" get lost, after R6, is misleading due to the description: according to it, the section R6–R7 is 60 m long, but in reality it's no more than 30 m. R6–R8 There's a belay station near a juniper bush, from it go left along the wall, as soon as it ends:

• go 8–10 m
• climb up the grassy ledges to the wall, also about 10 m From this point, on the right, you can see a flake:
• go under it
• 8 m up on it
• then immediately left, or right around the bend On the right, around the bend, there's an inner corner with grassy tufts/ledges, the walls are smooth.

1. Class: technical.
2. Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau.
3. Pik Alpinist, (5492 m) via S ridge.
4. Proposed category: 5A, combined.
5. Height difference: 1450 m, length: 2700 m. Average steepness of the rocky part is 45 degrees, snow and ice part is 30 degrees.
6. Pitons driven:
7. Climbing hours: 40 and days: 2.
8. Overnight stay: on the ridge.
9. Leader: Alexis Deschamps.
10. Participants: