Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — winter.
- Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge (O. Grigoryev, 97).
- Peak — Sv. Korei 4777 m, via the N wall couloir (Barbera).
- Proposed — 5B category of difficulty.
- Route characteristics:
height difference: to the summit — 680 m. length: about 800 m. length of 6th category sections — 80 m, 5th category — 650 m. average steepness to the ridge — 60°
- Equipment used on the route:
| Chocks | Rock pitons | Bolt pitons | Ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| 15 (4) | 5 (3) | 0 | 62 |
- Time taken — 17.5 hours, days — 3, including preparation.
- Overnights — 1
Overnight on the ridge, in a tent on a good ledge.
- Team composition:
Khvostenko Oleg Valerievich, 1st sports category — leader Glazyrin Yuri Evgenievich, 1st sports category Obednin Konstantin Alexandrovich, Master of Sports Koryukin Igor Vitalievich, Candidate Master of Sports Railko Yuri Borisovich, Candidate Master of Sports
- Team coaches:
Zakharov Nikolai Nikolaevich, International Master of Sports Balezin Valery Viktorovich, International Master of Sports
- Dates:
started the route — February 20, 2000 reached the summit — February 22, 2000 returned — February 22, 2000
- Organization: Krasnoyarsk City Committee for Physical Culture and Sports
2000
View of the route from the left. Taken from the summit of Izyiskatel on February 17, 2000. F = 35 mm.
Map of the ascent area M: 1:50 000
Photopanorama of the area.
Tactical Actions of the Team
On February 20, the team ascended to Koronskie bivouac. In the evening, the trio of Obednin, Koryukin, and Railko processed the start of the route, 4 ropes.
February 21. At 5:00, the team in full force began moving along the route, with Khvostenko leading. The most challenging section on the route was the sheer gorge of the couloir (R3–R4) with a rock belt about 10 m. After this section, Glazyrin took the lead and went first until the ridge. They reached the ridge at 18:00 and set up an overnight camp to the right of the saddle on a good ledge.
February 22. At 8:00, the team in full force began the ascent. Railko led. They reached the summit at 10:00. Half an hour later, they began their descent, dismantled the tent, descended down the Lowe 5A route, and were back at Koronskie bivouac by 18:00.
Throughout the entire route, the first climber went on a double rope, while the second and last climbers went on fixed ropes with top-rope belay. The main belay points were organized on at least two ice screws, blocked with a local loop. In the middle of the fixed rope, a backup block was made.
During the ascent, a rescue team was stationed at Koronskie bivouac: Arkhipov V. — Master of Sports, Pokhodenko A. — 1st sports category, Muravyov V. — Candidate Master of Sports, medic, as well as other team members not involved in their own route preparation. Regular radio contact was maintained with the observers.
During the ascent, the team used the full arsenal of modern equipment. There were no falls, injuries, or frostbite during the ascent.
UIAA Scheme
Description by Sections
R0–R1. Ice slope about 50°. R1–R2. Ice couloir going up to the right. R2–R3. Wide ice couloir. R3–R4. Vertical ice-rock gully, climbing is difficult, with some artificial aids. R4–R5. Wide ice couloir, steepness 50°. R5–R6. Ice couloir, steepness about 60°. R6–R7. Narrow ice gully-corner, steepness up to 70°. At the end, a snow cornice, exit to the ridge. R7–R8. Snow-covered slabs. R8–R9. Series of walls and internal corners, moderate difficulty. R9–R10. Snowy summit dome.