- Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai tract, section 7.4.
- Peak Svobodnaya Koreya, 4740 m via the couloir of the northern wall, G. Barber
- Category 5B complexity
- Ice-snow route
- Elevation gain of the route — 700 m
Route length — 1000 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 600 m. Average steepness:
- Main part of the route — 50°
- Entire route — 45°
- Team's working hours — 19 hours
- Team leader: Shustov Konstantin Vladimirovich, 1st sports category
Team members:
- Kozlov Alexander Borisovich, 1st sports category
- Minibaev Akhmadulla Akhmedgareevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
- Moskalev Semen Gennadievich, Candidate for Master of Sports
- Coach: Minibaev Akhmadulla Akhmedgareevich
- Departure for the route: 04:00 January 25, 2007.
Reached the summit: 16:30 January 25, 2007. Returned to Base Camp: 23:00 January 25, 2007. Descent via the ascent route.
Alpinism Federation of Russia Alpinism Federation of the Republic of Bashkortostan
RUSSIAN CHAMPIONSHIP 2007
Class — technical
Report on the ascent by the team from the Republic of Bashkortostan
Team leader Shustov K.V. Coach Minibaev A.A.
PASSPORT
- Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Aksai spur.
- Peak Svobodnaya Koreya via the couloirs of the northern wall (Barber's route), 4740 m.
- Category of complexity — 5B
- Nature of the route: ice-snow
- Elevation gain of the route – 680 m.
- Route length 1100 m.
Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 500 m.
Number of pitons left on the route: total 1, including bolted pitons 0
Number of pitons used on the route:
- stationary bolted pitons: 0 (including for artificial climbing holds 0)
- removable bolted pitons: 0 (including for artificial climbing holds 0);
- rock pitons: 11;
- ice screws: 72;
Total number of artificial climbing holds (ACH) used: 0
- Team's working hours: 10 hours, 1 day, and 1 day for preparation.
- Team leader: Shonin Andrey Viktorovich, Candidate for Master of Sports.
Team members:
- Vlasov Maxim Petrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports
- Gladyshev Andrey Alexandrovich, 1st sports category
- Kondrashov Vladimir Viktorovich, 1st sports category
- Coach: Igolkin V.I., Master of Sports.
- Departure for the route: 11:00 May 20, 2005. Preparation: 04:00 May 22, 2005. Reached the summit: 10:00 May 22, 2005. Returned to Base Camp: 15:00 May 22, 2005.
General photo of the Svobodnaya Koreya peak. Taken on August 17, 2004 from the "Koronovskaya" hut.
- Via the "triangle" of the Northern wall 5B (rock), B. Bagaev, 1974.
- Via the couloir of the Northern wall 5B (ice-snow), G. Barber, 1976.
- Via the center of the North-Western wall 5B (rock), V. Balezin, 1994.
| Rock | Ice | Route diagram in symbols | Section number |
|---|---|---|---|
| 11 | 72 | Total working hours 10 | |
| 3 | 3, 20 m, 40° | R11, working hours 6 | |
| 2 | 4, 10 m, 70° | R10 | |
| 4 | 2 | 3, 50 m, 30° | R9 |
| 14 | 5, 100 m, 70–90° | R8, reaching the ridge | |
| 8 | 5, 100 m, 55° | R7 | |
| 10 | 5, 100 m, 65° | R6 | |
| 2 | 4 | 5, 50 m, 60° | R5 |
| 12 | 5, 150 m, 50–60° | R4, preparation, working hours 4 | |
| 16 | 4, 210 m, 50° | R3 | |
| 6 | 3, 120 m, 45° | R2 | |
| 4, 2 m, 70° | R1 | ||
| 2, 100 m, 30° | R0 |
Technical photo of the route
Passage of section R6
Passage of section R8
Passage of the key section of the route (R8)
Passage of the summit tower (section R10)
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