ASCENT TABLE FOR Pik Semenova-Tyan-Shanskogo via route 4A cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

Climb Class Climb Region Peak, its height Ascent Route Difficulty Category (approximate) Height Difference Average Steepness Driven Kryachev's:

• rock
• ice
• bolt anchors Laid закладок Number of walking hours Number of overnight stays

Participants:

1. Nagovitsina Elena Yulyevna
2. Zueva Tamara Aleksandrovna

Photo 1. The summit of p. Semenova-Tyan-Shansky 4875 m.

• 1 — 5A, via the right part of the 3rd wall;
• 2 — 5B, to the bastion of the 3rd wall;
• 3 — 5B, via the right part of the 3rd wall;
• 4 — the first ascent route

1 0 3 35­–45 40 III­–IV­– 16 2 0 2 65­–70 15 IV+V­– 15 2 0 4 55­–65 40 IV­–IV+ 14 1 0 3 45­–50 30 III­–IV­– 13 1 0 2 60­–65 10 IV+V­– 12 1 0 4 45­–55 40 III­–IV­– 11 2 0 8 120024,07 KT. 75­–80 30 V­–V+ 10 2 0 8 45­–60 70 III­–IV­– 9 2 0 2 70­–80 10 V+ 3 1 0 6 55­–65 30 V­– 7 0 0 3 40­–450 25 IV­– 6 0 0 4 55­–400 40 III+IV 5 1 0 8 55­–70 60 IV+,V­– 4 2 0 1 55­–600 35 IV+ 3 0 0 1 15­–250 20 II­–III 2 0 2 0 45­–500 80 III 1 KPT-113 11207914 KAT 16 N 44 Fig. 3. Route scheme in UIAA symbols (beginning).

I. Climbing class - winter 2. Region - Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range 3. Peak Semenova-Tian-Shansky (4875 m) via 103 wall, combined route 4. Assumed difficulty category - 5B, first ascent 5. Height difference: 1225 m, length - 1600 m Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 570 m Average slope of the main part of the route

• 63° (3650-4250 m)

6. Pitons driven: rock pitons 49 17 chocks 99 36

4250 m

Route Description by Sections

Sec. 0–I. The beginning of the route — approaching the wall via an icy slope. Simultaneous movement, insurance through ice screws. Sec. I–6. Rocky bastion, a series of internal corners and walls with steepness up to 70–80°. Very complex rocks, limited number of holds and cracks. Use of thin pitons and small stoppers. Passage in artificial terrain (ИТО). Preliminary processing of this section is recommended. Alternating movement. A control cairn is left on the rocky ledge to the left of a pronounced grotto. Sec. 6–12. A series of walls and shelves leading to the key point of the route. Initially, a smooth rocky wall with a limited selection of cracks and small holds. Passage in ИТО. Further, via "sheep's foreheads" (бараньи лбы), approach under a vertical plate with a narrow crack. In the upper part:

• the crack turns into an overhanging chimney with a plug.
• Free climbing is practically impossible due to the lack of holds (only undercuts).
• For insurance — a single wedge-shaped crevice with an overhang, where only "Friends" (Френды) hold.
• Passage in ИТО. A cairn is left at the end of the section.

Ii a c ii o p t

I. Winter category. 2. Tian-Shan. Kyrgyz range. 3. peak Semenova-Tyan-Shanskogo, 4875 m, via the right part of the Western wall, 4. Cat. dif. 5B. 5. Height difference 1000 m, length 1500 m, wall section height difference 650 m, length 830 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif.: 570 m, average steepness of the wall section is 60°: 6. Pitons hammered: | rock | chockstones | ice screws |

3.4 Cenoboo 4875 m, 14:023 h