Central Tian Shan
Route Description: правой части С стены
SSummitMate**Route documentation for a Category 6A climb to Peak Svobodnoy Korei (4740) via the North wall, completed in February 2000.**
Passport
- Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
- Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4740, via the cascades of the central part of the North face (Ruchkin's Route, 1997).
- 6A category of difficulty, 2nd ascent.
- Combined.
- Height difference of the route: 800 m Route length: 910 m Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 540 m 6th category of difficulty — 165 m
Report on the winter ascent of the 6A category route on the northern wall of Pik Svobodnoy Korei (4777 m) in Tian-Shan by a team from Nizhny Novgorod and Novosibirsk.
Russian Championship 2021
Ice and Snow Ascent Category
Report
Combined team of Nizhny Novgorod and Novosibirsk Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4777 m via north wall, Ruchkin's route 2001, 6A category, winter ascent
Climbing Passport
- Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, 7.4.
- Peak — Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m via North wall, A. Ruchkin 2001.
- Category — 6A.
Route Description: СЗ стене, траверс
SSummitMateA description of the ascent route to the summit Svobodnaya Korea, located in the mountains of Kabardino-Balkaria, with details of the approach and technical features of the climb.
Fig. 1. Ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea (general view)
Route Description: СЗ стене, траверс
SSummitMateDescription of the route to Peak Kosmonavtov, including technical information and photographs of key stages of the ascent.
Fig. 6.
Fig. 7. Path to Pik Kosmonavtov
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateAscent certificate for the peak Semenov-Tian-Shansky via a new route, category 4A difficulty level.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent category — technical 2. Ascent region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge 3. Semenov-Tian-Shansky peak (4870 m) from the west via the northern ridge, combined 4. 4A, first ascent 5. Length 820 m Length of sections with 3rd technical grade 300 m, 4th technical grade 520 m 6. Pitons driven
- Rock
- Ice
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateAscent to Elbrus peak via the classic route from Garabashi glacier for experienced mountaineers.
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Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateDescription of a section of the route indicating the length, steepness and category of difficulty.
Section "length, steepness, travel time, category, hours, difficulties"
5
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateDescription of a challenging climbing route with ice and rock sections, featuring hazardous cornices and unstable rocks.
Brief description of the route by sections
Sections R0–R2. Snow and ice slope. Simultaneous movement. Insurance through ice screws. Crossing bergschrunds via snow bridges. Sections R2–R4. Rocky gully and a series of walls. Rocks are destroyed, iced over. The most difficult section on the route. Insurance:
- pitons
- nuts In the upper part of the gully, behind a jendarme, there's a control cairn. Alternating movement. Sections R4–R5. Rocky ridge, very sharp. Loose rocks, everything is snowy, overhanging cornices! Insurance via rock outcrops. Alternating-simultaneous movement.
Route Description: с перем. по ЮВ гребню
SSummitMateFirst traverse of the south-eastern ridge of the Peak Semionova-Tian-Shansky, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, 1987, 1st sports category.
I.
The route is combined
2. Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Kyrgyzstan Republic
3. Peak Semenova-Tyan-Shanskogo via the south-eastern ridge.
4. First ascent.
5. Height difference: 275 m, route length: 925 m, sections: I cat. dif. — 20 m, IV — 840 m, II cat. dif. — 40 m, II cat. dif. — 400 m.
6. Pitons used:
| Ice screws | Rock pitons | Nuts |
|---|---|---|
| 40 | 12 | 6 |
Route Description: с перем. по ЮВ гребню
SSummitMateClimbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the challenging route, key stages, and necessary skills for climbers.
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