148

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP

1991

WINTER CLASS

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit Svobodnaya Koreya (4740 m) via the North wall couloir, category 5B (Barber's route) by the team from the Physical Culture and Sports Committee of the Leningrad Soviet Executive Committee from February 26 to 27, 1991.

Team captain — Master of Sports of the USSR Ivanov Valery Anatolyevich Team coach — Master of Sports of the USSR Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich

Addresses

Physical Culture and Sports Committee of the Leningrad Soviet Executive Committee 191065, Leningrad, Khalturina st., 22

Team captain — Ivanov Valery Anatolyevich Leningrad, 197008 Sadovaya st., 125, apt. 38, phone 232-25-05

Team coach — Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich Leningrad, 196426 Kosygina ave., 11-2-356, phone 520-29-08

The steepness was determined visually. The calculations of the USSR State Committee for Sports were taken as a basis.

TACTICAL ACTIONS OF THE TEAM

The team planned to complete Barber's route without an overnight stay. The plan was fully implemented; it took 10 hours and 40 minutes to complete the route.

The team started working from the bergschrund at 5:30 on February 26, 1991, and reached the summit at 16:10.

The ascent was led by the rope team Ivanov-Sagurov. Throughout the route, the rope teams interacted with each other. Everyone wore crampons; the lead climbers used ice axes. Both rope teams used double ropes; the first rope team used a UIAA-certified rope.

There were no falls or injuries. The rescue team was stationed at the Koronskiye bivouac, directly below the route.

For radio communication, they used the "Lastochka" radio set. The climbers had pocket snacks. The route equipment included:

• bivouac gear,
• a primus stove,
• hot meal supplies.

The successful completion of the route was ensured by:

• high physical and technical preparation of the participants,
• a realistic tactical plan,
• material support for the team.

The descent from the summit Svobodnaya Koreya was made via the Lowe couloir on February 27.

UIAA Symbol Route Diagram

ROUTE DESCRIPTION BY SECTIONS

• Section R0–R1. Bergschrund. Crossing a steep 6-meter ice wall. 6 m, 90°, category 6.
• Section R1–R2. Ice gully with embedded rocks. 160 m, 50°, category 5.
• Section R2–R3. Ice couloir. The ice is porous in some places and very hard in others. 360 m, 50°, category 5.
• Section R3–R4. Crossing a ridge, which is an icy rocky crest. The rocks are covered with a thin layer of ice.
• Section R4–R5. Steep ice slope. The ice is hard. 320 m, 50°, category 5.
• Section R5–R6. Entrance to the throat of a steep narrow ice couloir. 80 m, 70°, category 5.
• Section R6–R7. Ice wall. 12 m, 75°, category 6.
• Section R7–R8. Narrow couloir with flow ice. 80 m, 60°, category 5. Exit to the ridge near a gap.
• Section R8–R9. Rocky ridge leading to the summit. 80 m, 40°, category 3–4.