Passport
I. Technical class. 2. Alayskiy ridge, Archa-Kanysh gorge. 3. Peak Leningradets via the center of the left part of the NE wall, 4980 m, rock. 4. 5B, second ascent. 5. the entire route wall is the most technically challenging part
| Height difference | 1050 m | 650 m | 4200–4680 m (480 m) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Length | 1600 m | 765 m | 580 m |
| Of which 6 and 5 cat. diff | 580 m | 580 m | 450 m |
| Average steepness | – | 76 | 80 |
- Pitons driven:
| rock | bolt | wedge | ice | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 130 | 3 | 31 | 10 | |
| 44 | 3 | 13 | 6 |
- Climbing hours — 31 and days — 4.
- Overnights: I — on a ledge, semi-reclining, comfortable. 2 — on a ledge, semi-sitting, uncomfortable. 3 — on the summit.
- Leader: Salma A.G. 1st sports category Participants: Barikhin I.M. 1st sports category Kalmykov S.G. Master of Sports Pronin M.M. 1st sports category Timoshenko T.I. Candidate Master of Sports Fedorov S.I. 1st sports category
- Coach: Kalmykov S.G. II. Departure to the route: July 19, 1985. Summit: July 22, 1985. Return to base camp: July 23, 1985.
- LOC DSO "Burevestnik", Leningrad.
| Section | Pitons | Cat. difficulty | Length, m | Height difference, m | Steepness, ° | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| rock | bolt | ice | wedge | |||||
| R1 | - | - | - | - | 3 | 150 | 100 | 45 |
| R2 | - | - | 1 | - | 5 | 45 | 45 | 80 |
| R3 | 8/3 | - | - | - | 5+ | 45 | 45 | 80 |
| R4 | 6 | - | - | 2 | 4 | 45 | 30 | 60 |
| R5 | 6 | - | - | 2 | 4 | 45 | 35 | 60 |
| R6 | 14/5 | - | - | 1 | 6 | 45 | 45 | 80–100 |
| R7 | 4/8 | 1 | - | 3 | 5 | 45 | 20 | 90 |
| R8 | 8/4 | - | 3/2 | 3 | 6 (A3) | 45 | 45 | 90–100 |
| R9 | 8/4 | - | 3/4 | 2 | 6 (A4e) | 45 | 45 | 90 |
| R10 | 6/3 | - | 3 | - | 5 | 45 | 35 | 60 |
| R11 | 14/4 | 1 | 2/2 | 1 | 4 | 90 | 80 | 70 |
| R12 | 10/4 | - | 2 | 1 | 5+ | 45 | 25 | 80–100 |
| R13 | 8/4 | - | 2 | 1 | 5 | 45 | 40 | 70 |
| R14 | 10/4 | - | 2 | 1 | 6 | 45 | 40 | 70–90 |
| R15 | 8 | - | 2 | - | 6 | 45 | 35 | 90 |
| R16 | 6 | - | - | 2 | 5+ | 45 | 45 | 90 |
| R17 | 42 | 3 | - | 4 | 5+ | 45 | 45 | 90 |
Fig. 1. Route diagram in CAA symbols. Scale 1:2000.
Fig. 2. Route profile. Scale 1:4000.
Fig. 3. General map of the area. Scale 1:100000. Group's route.
Fig. 4. Map of the area around Peak Leningradets. Group's route → 4. Photo shooting points. Scale ~ 1:50000.
Protocol
of the ascent to Peak Leningradets, 4980 m, via the left part of the NE wall, 5B cat. diff., group consisting of: Leader — Salma A.G.; Participants:
- Barikhin I.M.
- Kalmykov S.G.
- Pronin M.M.
- Timoshenko T.I.
- Fedorov S.I.
PRESENT:
- Karasev A.V. — senior coach of the gathering, supervisor.
- Lurie V.R. — head of the rescue team.
participants of the gathering. Salma A.G.: When preparing for the ascent, we used materials from the local KSP. We only had a hand-drawn croquis of the mountain, and this led to some difficulties in orientation on the route. The time breakdown was as follows:
- We approached the route on July 19, 1985, at 13:00.
- We processed 4.5 ropes, after which everyone spent the night under the route.
- The next day, we started moving along the fixed ropes at 9:00.
- At 11:00, Fedorov started moving further.
- At 14:30, he reached a ledge, where we later spent the night.
- We completed another 3 ropes of extremely difficult climbing, and at 21:00, we descended to a ledge for the night.
- We realized that the last 3 ropes we climbed were not on the route.
- The next day, we continued moving along the route from 9:00.
- By 12:00, we reached the 1st cat. diff., where we found a note from the first ascensionists.
- By 21:00, we reached the area of the 2nd cat. diff.
- We spent the night on a uncomfortable ledge, 2 ropes below. We didn't find a cairn.
- The next day, we started working at 8:30.
- At 13:00, we reached the ridge.
- At 21:00, we were on the summit, where we spent the night.
- We descended via 2A towards the Leningradets pass.
Route characteristics: The wall is very steep, the rock is loose, brittle, and very unreliable. Monolithic walls were rarely encountered. With such rock, pitons were not always reliable. Because of this, the psychological load was very high, and after 6–7 hours of work, even 1st category climbers were exhausted.
Above the level of the first overnight, the route was covered with flow ice. We had to climb in crampons or cut steps, alternating between ice and rock. I'm satisfied with all the participants; I want to note the work of Pronin and Fedorov, who climbed first, and Barikhin, who always worked last.
The radio worked properly, not a single communication session was missed. Kalmykov: I want to emphasize what was said about the nature of the route. The route is a combination of great steepness and low rock reliability, with strong rock degradation. There are no complaints about the participants; everyone is physically and technically very well prepared. Salma proved to be a good leader, able to maintain a calm and good atmosphere in the group. Pronin: I liked the route, but I wouldn't recommend it to other groups. All the positive emotions from the ascent are strongly suppressed by the insufficient reliability of most sections. I think the leader coped with their task. Fedorov: I want to note that on the wall, you have to climb everywhere; there are no easy sections. There are very few places for overnight stays. Barikhin: This is my first 5B. Compared to all previously climbed routes, this one is much more difficult and longer. I have no complaints about the participants or the leader. Kalmykov: I agree with the leader's opinion. Karasev: The ascent was completed without any violations. The leadership and participation are to be credited.
Supervisor: Karasev A.V. Secretary: Oparneva N.
