Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical

2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai ridge

3. Peak, its height: Leningradets, 5040 m, via North wall Ascent route: 5B (validated route)

4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B category of difficulty

5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1200 m

   Average steepness 70°

   Length of sections:

   • 3–4 category of difficulty — 630 m
   • 5 category of difficulty — 650 m
   • 6 category of difficulty — 20 m

6. Pitons driven:

   • For belay:
     • rock — 39
     • ice — 19
     • protection elements — 13
   • For creating RPS (Rope Protection System):
     • rock — 2
     • ice — 0
     • protection elements — 1

7. Number of climbing hours: 14 hours

8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: no bivouacs

9. Surname, name, patronymic of participants, their sports qualification:

   Tarasevich Sergey Nikitich, Candidate Master of Sports Okladnikov Viktor Efremovich, Candidate Master of Sports

10. Team coach: Yakovlev Vitaly Dmitrievich, senior instructor, Master of Sports of the USSR

11. Date of departure and return:

    August 10, 1980, 2:00 AM — departure, August 10, 1980, 4:00 PM — return.

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TABLE OF MAIN ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS

Explanations for the table

Section

• 0–1
• 1–2
• 2–3
• 3–4
• 4–5
• 5–6
• 6–7
• 7–8
• 8–9
• 9–10
• 10–11
• 11–12
• 12–13
• 13–14
• 14–15

Explanation

• Snow slope
• Bergschrund with snow bridges, with gullies from snow slides where ice is exposed.
• Ice slope with gullies.
• Rock outcrops with flowed ice.
• Destroyed ridge with slabs facing down. Sandy coating. Loose rocks.
• Crossing from the left part of the ridge to the right with overcoming an overhanging rusty fragment. Rocks hold well.
• Ridge turning into a wide crevice. Rocks falling! Caution!
• Shoulder of the ridge. Semi-reclined bivouac possible. Rocks are friable.
• Narrow ridge with a traverse to the wall of the left part of the ridge. Sand on the rocks. Flowed ice on the wall.
• Wall with very destroyed rocks. Rocks falling! Caution!
• Traverse along the wall to the right part of the ridge. Rocks are destroyed. Being swung out. The second has to make double handrails with rope pulling through.
• Right part of the ridge with an exit to its summit. Finely fragmented rock. No place to drive a piton.
• Crossing an ice gully to rock outcrops on the left. Control cairn.
• Rock outcrops. Destroyed rock! Caution!
• Snow ridge leading to the summit.