Report
on the ascent to Mashalyan peak via the South wall, category 5B (third ascent)
SKA UralVO Team:
- Mikhailov A.N. — team leader and coach, Master of Sports
- Evsyukov G.K. — deputy leader, Master of Sports
- Povolotsky V.Yu. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
- Kharitonov A.P. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
Table
of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Mashalyan peak via the South wall
Route length — 1100 m
Height difference of the wall section — 800 m
Average slope — 68°
Brief explanation of the table of the main route characteristics
0–1. Large, smooth slabs. Small indentations and roughness. Friction climbing. Insurance is difficult.
1–2. Wall, smooth rocks with a limited number of holds. Piton and nut protection.
2–3. Smooth walls, monolithic. At the top — a chimney.
3–4. Vertical chimney narrowing to a slot. At the top — a cornice. Further, a small wall and another cornice. The second cornice is traversed using artificial aids.
4–5. Slightly left and up the wall. Rocks are smooth, with few holds.
5–6. Vertically up a narrow slot, transition along a smooth wall to the left to another slot — again up. Difficult climbing. Use of artificial aids.
6–7. 80 m chimney, walls are smooth. Insurance is difficult.
7–8. 40 m wall, smooth. Climbing is very difficult. Small indentations and roughness, rare flakes are used for holds. Exit to a ledge.
8–9. From the ledge, movement along slots. Exit to a sharp ridge — a "knife".
9–10. Traversing the "knife" ridge. At the top of the ridge — a chimney. Climbing is difficult.
11–12. Up a smooth wall, monolithic, with small ledges. Exit to a ridge.
12–13. Movement left along the ridge. The first large gendarme is on the right, the second — on the left. Rocks are smooth, like "sheep's foreheads". Few ledges. The summit.
The summit.
Descent:
- Along the ridge further along the path to the lateral junction of the ridge, going to the right into the Mashalyan gorge.
- Rocks are destroyed, many "loose" stones.
- Descend to the lowering, to the talus, going down to the lake.
