Ascent Certificate

  1. Ascent classification: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
  3. Peak, its height: Leninградец, 5040 m, via the central part of the north face, ascent route: qualifying route.
  4. Difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1200 m Average slope: 76°. Length of sections:
    • 3–4 difficulty category – 140 m
    • 5 difficulty category – 500 m
    • 6 difficulty category – 310 m
  6. Number of pitons: For belaying:
    • rock pitons – 41
    • ice screws – 22
    • protection gear – 59 For creating belay anchors:
    • rock pitons – 4
    • protection gear – 5
  7. Number of climbing hours: 13 hours
  8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: no bivouacs
  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:
    • Tarasovich Sergey Nikitich, Candidate for Master of Sports
    • Okladnikov Viktor Efimovich, Candidate for Master of Sports
  10. Team coach: Yakovlev Vitaly Dmitrievich, senior instructor, Master of Sports of the USSR
  11. Date of departure and return: August 7, 1980:
    • 4:00 – departure
    • 17:00 – return

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Table of Main Route Characteristics

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Brief Explanation of the Table

SectionExplanation
R0–R1traverse of the spall
R1–R2bypassing the tower on the right via ledges
R2–R3monolithic ridge
R3–R4exit under the black wall
R4–R5cracked inner corner
R5–R6monolithic wall
R6–R7crossing the glacier
R7–R8wall with small holds
R8–R9wall with a small cornice
R9–R10traverse left, up the wall under the cornice anchor
R10–R11overhanging wall with cornices, left towards the edge
R11–R12overhanging inner corner
R12–R13bypassing the candle on the right
R13–R14cracked sandy wall
R14–R15cracked sandy wall, traversing movement
R15–R16crossing the couloir
R16–R17exit to the right ridge via a rockfall-prone couloir
R17–R18wet overhanging chimney, difficult climbing
R18–R19ice gully
R19–R20ice ridge
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Sources

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