SA and Navy Alpine Championship
— TECHNICAL CLASS —
Report
Ural Military District team's ascent of Pik Leningradets via the Central Bastion of the North Face (rated route 5B cat. difficulty)
Kharitonov A.P. — CMS, team leader Zadvoryev Yu.V. — CMS Povolotsky V.Yu. — CMS Tarkhov E.V. — 1st sports rank
Team coach MS — Mikhailov A.A.
Pamir-Alay
1980
General view of the Ural Military District team's route on Pik Leningradets via the Central Bastion of the North Face.
Table of main characteristics of the route to Pik Leningradets (5040 m) via the Central Bastion of the North Face. Elevation gain — 1140 m, including 690 m of technically difficult sections. Average slope — 70°, number of pitons — 116.
| Date | Section | Average slope | Distance, m | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Other protection |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| August 26, 1980 | R0–R1 | 60 | 30 | Wall | 5 | monolithic | good | 3 | – | 1 |
| R1–R2 | 60 | 60 | Wall | 5 | fragile | – | 3 | – | 2 | |
| R2–R3 | 40 | 120 | Ridge | 3–4 | monolithic | – | 2 | – | 2 | |
| R3–R4 | 40 | 70 | Ridge | 3–4 | monolithic | – | 2 | – | 2 | |
| R4–R5 | 50 | 140 | Wall, inner angle | 5 | fragile | – | 4 | – | 2 | |
| R5–R6 | 40 | 50 | Wall | 4 | monolithic | – | 3 | – | 1 | |
| R6–R7 | 45 | 120 | Ice slope | 4 | hard, clean | – | – | 10 | – | |
| R7–R8 | 70 | 80 | Wall | 5 | fragile | – | 5 | – | 3 | |
| R8–R9 | 70 | 70 | Wall | 5 | monolithic | – | 5 | – | 3 | |
| R9–R10 | 75 | 60 | Wall | 5 | monolithic | – | 6 | – | 3 | |
| R10–R11 | 90 | 40 | Wall | 6 | monolithic | – | 5 | – | 5 | |
| R11–R12 | 85 | 40 | Inner angle | 6 | monolithic | – | 4 | – | 6 | |
| August 26, 1980 | R12–R13 | 55 | 40 | Couloir | 4 | fragile | good | 2 | – | 2 |
| R13–R14 | 55 | 40 | Wall | 4 | fragile | – | 1 | – | 3 | |
| R14–R15 | 60 | 60 | Wall | 5 | fragile | – | 2 | – | 3 | |
| R15–R16 | 60 | 40 | Wall | 5 | fragile | – | 2 | – | 2 | |
| R16–R17 | 50 | 80 | Couloir | 4 | fragile | – | 3 | – | 2 | |
| R17–R18 | 75 | 70 | Chimney | 5 | monolithic | – | 4 | – | 4 | |
| R18–R19 | 45 | 60 | Ice groove | 4 | with rocks | – | 2 | 2 | – | |
| R19–R20 | 30 | 100 | Snow-ice ridge, summit | 2 | firm snow | – | – | – | – |
Time of departure — 5:15, Time of arrival at the summit — 19:00, Total climbing time — 13 hours 45 minutes.
Team captain Kharitonov A.P. Team coach Mikhailov A.A.
Brief explanation of the table of main route characteristics
| Section | Description |
|---|---|
| R0–R1 | Monolithic wall. Move right of the slope. |
| R1–R2 | Traverse the tower on the right, then climb the wall. |
| R2–R3 | Ridge with monolithic rocks. |
| R3–R4 | Traverse along a ledge, right of the ridge, and exit below the black wall. |
| R4–R5 | Fragile wall, climbed via an inner angle. |
| R5–R6 | Monolithic wall. Move towards the glacier. |
| R6–R7 | Traverse the glacier towards the bastion. |
| R7–R8 | Smooth wall with small holds, move along the edge. |
| R8–R9 | Monolithic wall with a small cornice. |
| R9–R10 | Short traverse left with a descent, then straight up under the cornice. Difficult climbing. |
| R10–R11 | Overhanging wall with cornices, move left towards the edge. Crux section. |
| R11–R12 | Overhanging inner angle, ending with "rock spires". Exit below the "candle". |
| R12–R13 | Traverse the "candle" on the right, cross the couloir towards the rock island. Fragile rock. |
| R13–R14 | Fragile wall, composed of sandstone. |
| R14–R15 | Fragile sandstone wall, move with a traverse to the left. |
| R15–R16 | Wall, climbed to the right, crossing the couloir. |
| R16–R17 | Exit onto the right edge via a rockfall-prone couloir. |
| R17–R18 | Overhanging chimney, difficult climbing. |
| R18–R19 | Ice groove with embedded rocks. |
| R19–R20 | Snow-ice ridge and summit dome. |
