First ascent of Vozh Peak (5434 m) via the spur of the northeast face, 5B difficulty category, Pamir, Shugnanskiy Range.
Ascent Passport CATEGORY — High-altitude technical REGION — South-Western Pamir, Shugnan Range PEAK — Vodzh peak 5434 m first ascent via the counterfort of the northeastern wall PROPOSED difficulty category — 5B HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1065 m LENGTH of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 600 m. AVERAGE slope — 62°. PITS DRIVEN: For belaying: For creating ITO
Ascent to Peak Oktyabrsky 6780 m via the east face from Oktyabrsky Glacier in 1970 by the team of CS SSO "Gantiadi".
To the championship of the country in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents. Report On the ascent of Peak Oktyabrsky 6780 m via the eastern wall from the Oktyabrsky glacier. Team of the Central Council of the Gantiadi Sports Society TBILISI 1970 List of participants of the 1970 USSR Alpine Championship of the Central Council of the Gantiadi Sports Society team | №№ | Full Name | Year of Birth | Position in Expedition | Rank | Primary Occupation (Profession) | Party Membership | Nationality | Home Address | a) Best Ascent and Year. b) Best Ascents over the Last 2 Years. | |:--:|:----------------------------------:|:-------------:|:-----------------------:|:----:|:-------------------------------:|:-----------------:|:-----------:|:-------------------------------:|:---------------------------------------------------------------:|
Route passport to the summit of *Sainte-Exupery* (2680 m) in the *Fitz Roy* massif, Patagonia, climbed via the north ridge and east face in 1996.
Passport Rock climbing category. The Andes, Fitz Roy Massif (Argentina, Patagonia). Summit Saint-Exupéry 2680 m via the North Ridge and East Face. Proposed category of complexity 5B, first ascent. Height difference – 500 m; route length – 860 m; including 340 m traverse on the 3rd wall from the ridge at 70° steepness; sections of 5th-6th category complexity – 760 m; out of which 6th category complexity – 240 m. Average steepness of the route (excluding traverse) – 73°. Pitons driven: rock — 49/11 bolt — 2/2 protection cams — 112/17
Traverse of Peak Oktyabrsky — Peak Lenin with ascent to Peak Oktyabrsky via the western edge, made by the combined team of the CSKA in 1964.
Report On the high-altitude traverse of Peak Oktyabrsky – Peak Lenin, with the ascent to Peak Oktyabrsky via the western edge, accomplished by the combined team of CSKA. Dedicated to the 30th anniversary of the ascent by the Red Army team to Peak Lenin in 1934. The Trans-Alai Range, discovered in 1871 by the renowned explorer of Central Asia, A.P. Fedchenko, is one of the highest mountain ranges in the Pamir region. The highest part of the range is located in its center and forms a chain of peaks: Peak Lenin – 7134 m, Peak 6852 m, Peak Dzerzhinsky, Peak Kyzyl-Agyn, Peak Edinstva, and others. Peak Lenin is the third highest peak in the Soviet Union, the most popular "seven-thousander," and a high-altitude mountaineering stadium of the country. To the east of Peak Lenin, the Trans-Alai Range turns south and, in the area of Peak Edinstva, divides into two. The main range continues eastward, and a powerful, long Zulumart range with its highest point, Peak Oktyabrsky (6780 m), branches off to the south. The chain of peaks from Peak Oktyabrsky to Krylenko Pass was named "Mountains of Barricades" by N.V. Krylenko in 1928, which now includes: Oktyabrsky Peaks, Peak Edinstva, Peak 6350 m, and Peak 6104 m. Peak Oktyabrsky is a massif with three peaks: the South Peak, with an elevation of about 6750 m (this is the peak visible from the Kara-Jilgа valley), the Main Peak with an elevation of 6780 m, and the North Peak with an elevation of about 2270 m. The elevation differences between the peaks reach 100–120 meters. From Krylenko Pass to the south descends the powerful B. Sauk-Dara glacier, which is framed by steep slopes and walls of the surrounding peaks.
Description of the traverse of Jirayn and 5100 m peaks in the Southwestern Pamir via a Category 5B difficulty level route.
ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Technical Class. South-West Pamir, Shugnan Ridge. Traverse of peaks Dzhirain (5329 m) and 5100 m with ascent to peak Dzhirain via the South-East buttress. Estimated difficulty category 5B. Route characteristics: height difference: 1400 m (Dzhirain), 400 m (p. 5100) section length: total 3500 m 5th category 325 m
The Chelyabinsk team made the first ascent of Vozh Peak via the spur of the northeast wall during the I RSFSR Alpine Climbing Championship in 1983, with the route rated as Category 5B.
The First RSFSR Climbing Championship 1983 First Ascent Category Peak Vodzh 5434 m via the counterfort of the northeast wall (first ascent) Team of the Chelyabinsk Regional Sports Committee captain — Kaigorodtsev S.A. coach — Tarkhanov V.G. 454043, Chelyabinsk, Revolution Square, 4, room 96 chairman of the regional sports committee — Vanitkin Gennady Vasilyevich,
Ascent record of Peak Oktyabrsky and Lenin via traverse along the southern slope, category of complexity 5B, Pamir, 1984.
Ascent Passport Ascent class — snow and ice climb. Ascent region — Pamir. Traverse of peaks p. Oktyabrsky — P. Lenin with ascent to p. Oktyabrsky Yuzhny via the South slope. Difficulty category — 5B (approximately). Route characteristics (first ascent section): Total height difference — 1680 m Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 790 m Average steepness — 45° Pitons used:
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Vozh (5434 m) via the North face through the Marsh Mira pass, difficulty category 5A.
Ascent Passport Class — High-altitude technical South-West Pamir, North Shugnan Range, Nematzdara valley Vodzh peak, 5434 m, via the North face through Marsh Mira pass Proposed category of complexity — 5A cat. diff., snow-ice Height difference: 780 m, length 1170 m, length of 5th category sections — 410 m, average steepness of main sections — 51° (5170–5410) 49° (4694–5080) Pitons driven: protection and ITO rock —
Report on the ascent of the "Bars" team to Peak Ismoili Somoni via the S slope from Walter Glacier, August 11-20, 2022
Report On ascending the peak of Ismoila Somoni (formerly Peak Kommunizma) via the southern slope from Walter Glacier, BPP, and "Big Barrier" ("Classics") - ice-snow route, category 5A difficulty, by the "Bars" team from August 11, 2022, to August 20, 2022. I. Ascent Report | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Dusheyko Alexander Sergeyevich, 1st sports rank | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Belyankina Natalia Pavlovna, 1st sports rank (at the time of the ascent, it was pending but not registered) | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Torshin Mikhail Viktorovich, 1st sports rank |
Report on MAI team's ascent to Chiringad peak (5864 m) via the center of the West face, category 6B difficulty level, in Pamir, 2008.
Russian Championship (Technical Climbing Category) Climbing Report of the MAI Team on peak Chiringyad 5864 m via the center of the Western wall, 6B category, August 5-8, 2008 Moscow, 2008 Team Captain: M. Volkov [email protected] ph. +7-985-233-83-64 Team Coach: V. Lavrinenko [email protected] ph. +7-916-439-03-12 Report preparation: M. Pankov [email protected] ph. +7-910-492-76-05 Climbing Details № 4.12.61, peak Chiringyad 5864 m via the center of the Western wall (N. Petrov, 1989), 6B