Passport

  1. Rock climbing category.
  2. The Andes, Fitz Roy Massif (Argentina, Patagonia).
  3. Summit Saint-Exupéry 2680 m via the North Ridge and East Face.
  4. Proposed category of complexity 5B, first ascent.
  5. Height difference – 500 m; route length – 860 m; including 340 m traverse on the 3rd wall from the ridge at 70° steepness; sections of 5th-6th category complexity – 760 m; out of which 6th category complexity – 240 m. Average steepness of the route (excluding traverse) – 73°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock — 49/11 bolt — 2/2 protection cams — 112/17 sky-hook holes — 2 ice screws — 8
  7. Team's climbing hours — 24 h. Days on the route — 2. Night descent — 11 h down the East Face (16 rappels).
  8. Overnight: 1 — lying on a snowy ledge on the ridge under Rafael.
  9. Team leader: Igor Kin Victor Ivanovich, Master of Sports Participants:
    • Arzamascev Nikolay Alexandrovich, 2nd sports category
    • Volod'ko Anatoly Petrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports
    • Zaitov Rinat Nurovich, Master of Sports
    • Ivanov Alexander Vasil'evich, Candidate for Master of Sports
    • Sibayev Mingalim Minsalimovich, Master of Sports
    • Soldatov Sergey Yur'evich, Master of Sports
    • Stroganov Yuri Afanas'evich, 2nd sports category
  10. Coach: Igolkin Victor Ivanovich, Master of Sports
  11. Approach to the route: December 26, 1996 (12:00) Summit: December 27, 1996 (19:30) Return: December 28, 1996 (7:00 at the base of the wall, 16:00 at base camp)
  12. Organization: Alpine Club of Magnitogorsk "MGMI".

MAPA DEL PARQUE NACIONAL LOS GLACIARES img-0.jpeg img-1.jpeg

img-2.jpeg Photo of the North Ridge and East Face

R0–R1 — 100 m, 55°, IV–; R1–R2 — 90 m, 65° V–; R2–R3 — 90 m, 75° V+; R3–R3′ — 170 m V+, traverse on the wall 70°; R3′–R4 — 170 m V+, traverse on the wall 70°; R4–R5 — 240 m, 85° VI–VI.

Sources

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