Anniversary Climbing Event on the Central Caucasus, dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Victory

1995

Rock Climbing Category

Report

• On the first ascent to the summit of Fytargin, 4184 m, via the south-eastern counterfort
• Of the southern spur, approximately 4B category of difficulty, by a sports group from Dnipropetrovsk
• August 14, 1995 Leader: Banya A.V.

Fig. 12. The lamp of the couloir on the right side of the Central rib. Then, via simple snow-covered (cornices) rocks of the Eastern ridge, ascend to the summit of Tsurungal. From the bivouac on the wall, 6 hours. 63. Tsurungal via the South ridge (combined route, A. Japaridze, category III difficulty, fig. 5, 10, 12). From the "Aylama" alpine camp, cross the Koruldashi river via a temporary bridge and follow the trail on the right side of the gorge to the first snowy couloir. To the right of the couloir are rock climbing areas. Cross the couloir, turn right and ascend via the trail:

• grassy,

Fig. 13. From Koruldashi glacier 8–10 hrs. The route is prone to rockfall. 65. Tsurungal via the North-West ridge (combined route. A. Freisля, 3B cat. dif., fig. 5, 12, 13). From Ailama meadows (point 44) follow the center of the Western branch of Ailama glacier (closed crevasses) to approach Tsurungal saddle on the Main Caucasian Range between Ailama and Tsurungal. From the glacier, having crossed a snow bridge or bypassed a large bergschrund on the left under Tsurungal slopes, ascend 200–250 m up an icy-snowy slope (loose rocks, belay). Then, bypassing two ice crevasses on the right, approach the rocky slope of the saddle (steep slope). Ascend 150–200 m up severely damaged steep rocks of medium difficulty (loose rocks, streams) to the left side of the saddle (cornice). On the saddle, turn left and ascend wide talus rocks to reach the north-west ridge of Tsurungal. On the route:

• Ascend 200–250 m up steep easy severely damaged rocks of the North-West ridge (belay)
• Then ascend 60–80 m up steep rocks of medium difficulty (piton) to the rise
• From the rise ascend 300–350 m up easy severely damaged rocks of the North-West ridge
• Difficult sections are bypassed on the left

Archimedes. nandari dolor. 29 Agolferf

10. Archimedes from the north-west via couloir — category III difficulty (V. Ryazanov, V. Benkin, A. Ryabukhin, V. Samokhvalov, and V. Chernov — July 8, 1961). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the left-bank moraine of the Maly Ukyu glacier behind the Southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak summit see in description 3. Immediately behind the Southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak, [move] right to a large scree and, in its lower part, partially snowed couloir that is snow-ice in its upper part (rope up! the couloir is prone to rockfall). 60–70 m up the rocks on the right side of the couloir, then traverse the couloir left and 60–65 m up the rocks on the left side (beware of streams!). Above the couloir's mouth, from under the slabs, move to the right side of the couloir and exit to the North-West

Archimedes Peak via the northern ice gully, Category III, Winter Climbing.

From the Ukyu-kosh hut, follow the terminal moraine trail to the KSP "dovecote" shelter - 3/4 to 1 hour. The ice gully is a hanging glacier tongue descending from the 3rd ridge plateau, bounded on both sides by rocky buttresses. Over a 200m stretch, the glacier's slope is 40-45°, with the lower 40m being nearly vertical and, in places, overhanging. From the "dovecote", cross the glacial stream and ascend the icy slope with rocks and snow debris to the glacier's terminus. When ascending the tongue, stick to the safer middle section and only shift towards the left buttress rocks when reaching the gentler upper part. From the route's start - 5-8 hours. Further ascent along the ridge to the 3rd and highest peaks, and descent - as per description 1. Hazardous sections: the entire lower part of the route is prone to rockfall from both sides. It's advisable to start the route as early as possible; avoid starting after a warm night or in low visibility. Special equipment:

• Ice screws - 8-15 pcs.
• Ice hammers (ice fifis)
• Crampons - for all participants

Bashkhauz, S. Ridge

The approach to the SW — Bashkhauz cirque — is similar to the previous description. Go through the cirque under the slopes of the S. ridge and ascend to the MSTU pass — the last saddle on the S ridge. 3–4 hours from the hut. Along the snowy ridge with outcrops of destroyed rocks, simultaneously with belay on the protrusions, to the steep rocky ascent. Here:

• Traverse left 20 m.
• Then ascend up the snowy slope (at the beginning of the season), or along the destroyed rocks (attention! — rockfall hazard, possible ice) to the SE — shoulder of the ridge. Along the gentle ridge simultaneously to the summit. About 1 hour from the pass. The descent from the summit is along the SW ridge according to the previous description. Hazardous areas:
• on the Bezengi glacier — crevasses and rockfall hazard from the S slopes of the peak

5. Bashkha-Auz-bashi via SW ridge.

From the "Jangi-kosh" hut through the "crescent-shaped" moraine to the Bezengi glacier, along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the glacier (attention - closed crevices, rockfall hazard from the S slopes of Peak Warsaw), bypassing the bases of three S spurs of the main ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashkha-Auz-bashi, along the cirque under the slopes of the SW ridge. From the hut 2.5–3 hours. Through the bergschrund, along the left side of the snow slope, bounded on the right by a rocky buttress of the ridge (attention - rockfall hazard on the right side), onto the ridge. Along the snowy ridge with rock outcrops, with simultaneous belay on protrusions and bends of the ridge to the summit.

• From the glacier - 1.5 hours.
• Descent along the ascent route to the glacier 1 hour, and then to the hut about 1 hour.

6. Bashkha-Auz-bashi via S ridge.

The approach to the SW cirque of Bashkha-Auz is similar to the previous description. Traverse the cirque under the slopes of the S ridge and ascend to the MSTU pass - the last col in the S ridge. From the hut 3–4 hours. Along the snowy ridge with outcrops of broken rocks, with simultaneous belay on protrusions, to a steep rocky ascent. Here, traverse left 20 m and then ascend up the snowy slope (at the beginning of the season), or along broken rocks (attention! - rockfall hazard, possible ice) to the SE shoulder of the ridge. Along the gentle ridge simultaneously to the summit. From the pass about 1 hour. Descent from the summit along the SW ridge according to the previous description.

Башхауз, from the ridge. From the “Jangi-kosh” hut along the ridge of the right-bank (“crescent-shaped”) moraine to its flattening, then along the Sella glacier. Along the left edge or through the middle of the icefall (fig. 1) exit to the upper circus and through it (attention — hidden crevasses) — under the slopes with the Bash-a-uz-b ridge. To the right of the rocky outcrops from the glacier along the slopes with the ridge to the left to the talus counterforce coming from the pass. Go around the base of the counterforce from the left, ascend from it along the S slope. Along the ridge of the counterforce, then 30–40 m along the ice drop wall (steepness 50–60°) and along the flattening snowy slope under the Sella pass, 4–5 hours from the hut. From the pass along the S ridge simultaneously to the summit of the 1st “gendarme” (control tour), then down 30–40 m along the rocky shelves to the snowy slope and bypassing the 2nd “gendarme” to the right — to the ridge. The 3rd “gendarme” — head-on or to the right, and along the snowy ridge (attention — possible cornices to the left) through small rocky “gendarme” head-on to the summit. 3–4 hours from the pass. Descent from the summit:

• along the SW ridge to the snowy saddle,
• then to the left along the right side of the snowy slope (rockfall hazard from the left),
• to the Bezengi glacier and along it (attention
• Hidden crevasses, under the slopes of the Warsaw peak rockfall hazard — bypassing

Ба­ш­хауз, 3 контр­фор­са с греб­ня. From the “Djangi-kosh” hut along the crest of the right-bank (“sickle-shaped”) moraine to its flattening and further along the crest of the counterfort with small rocky walls, then along the N crest to the right to the summit. From the start of the route 6–8 hours. Descent from the summit along the SW ridge to the snowy saddle, left along the right edge (attention - stonefall hazard on the left) of the snowy slope to the Bezengi glacier and along it (cautiously: closed crevasses, stonefall hazard under the S slopes of peak Вар­ша­ва) bypassing the S spurs of the Sella - Вар­ша­ва ridge to the hut. From the summit 1.5–2 hours. Hazardous areas:

• On the glaciers - hazardous closed crevasses and stonefall hazard under the S slopes of peak Вар­ша­ва
• On the snow-ice slope to the right of the counterfort - stonefall hazard
• On the N crest - possible cornices on the left
• When descending from the SW ridge - stonefall hazard on the left side of the slope. Special equipment:
• Rock pitons - 7–8 pcs.