Peak Nikolaev
Peak Nikolaev (3815 m) is named in memory of the mountaineer Nikolai Nikolaev. It is located in the eastern spur of the Mamison vertex, dividing the upper reaches of the Tsey Glacier into:
- Southern branch;
- Northern branch.
Above the spur, the peak rises with a small rocky pyramid, from which a panorama of the peaks of almost the entire Tsey region opens.
- Peak Nikolaev via the southern slope, 1B category of difficulty (B. Kizel, B. Aleynik, July 24, 1934).
The path from the KSP Tsey region to the initial bivouac in the hut on the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in route 83.
From the hut, descend to the glacier and along its right side approach the second wide snowy couloir descending onto the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier from the right. Here, turn right and ascend via the wide, gently sloping snowy couloir to the left side of the rocky cape protruding in the center of the couloir under the southern slopes of Peak Nikolaev. Bypass the rocky wall of the cape from the left along a steep snowy slope (protection). From it, exit to the right onto a wide balcony above the rocky cape (ice axe platforms) with a snowy slope — under the southern walls of the peak (leave ice axes on the platforms).
Ascend from the right side of the balcony via simple rocks, then traverse along the ledges to the left with a slight descent in the middle part. Further, to the left — up to the shoulder. From the shoulder, a slight descent to a wide ledge.
Along the ledge, traverse the Southern slope to the left and, beyond a wide snow-covered couloir (where rockfall and avalanches are possible — protection), exit onto a large platform.
From the platform, to the left — up along the ledges and simple rocks, then straight up via "live" stones along easy rocks, further 10 m along a chimney — a crevice (protection) and again along easy rocks and scree to Peak Nikolaev.
From the hut: 4–5 hours.
Descent via the ascent route.
Naumov A. F. Karagum, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.
PEAK NIKOLAEV