I. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak — Ullu-Kara via the left part of the north-eastern wall (first ascent).
4. Difficulty category: 5B, approximate.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 1545 m.
   • height difference — 1300 m.
   • average steepness — 47°.
   • length of sections with 5.6 difficulty category — 500 m

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Ushba South peak (4710) via the left part of the Southwest wall (Myshlyaev's route).
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, second ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1460 m (3250 m — 4710 m); length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 810 m; average steepness of main sections —
6. Pitons hammered:

Report on the First Ascent by the Team of the Multidisciplinary Climbing Club "FRILINE" from Essentuki

To the summit of Khazni-Bashi

via the south ridge and southwest wall Presumably 4B category of difficulty Team Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2019 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59, Popov M.L. 8 928 265-71-30 mikl_popov@inbox.ru

Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Central Caucasus, Suaryk gorge.
3. Suaryk Eastern peak, via the center of the NE wall, 950 m.
4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 625 m, route length 895 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty is 380 m. Average slope of the route is 63°. Average slope of the wall section is 74°.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 92, bolt — 7, chocks — 58. Left behind: rock — 7, bolt — 1.

Description

Climbing route to the summit SOVIETSKY VOIN 2A category of complexity. The summit elevation is 4052 m. The Soviet Voïn peak is located in the Eastern spur of Elbrus. From the junction of the Baksan valley and the Adyl-Su gorge, take the road to the settlement of Elbrus, located at the entrance to the Irik-Chat gorge. Follow the lower trail on the right bank of the Irik-Chat river upstream through the gorge. The trail goes along a grassy slope past sand pillars and small forests to the confluence of the Irik and Chat rivers. At the forest boundary, there are "Lower Camps" (3-3.5 hours from the Adyl-Su tourist center). Then the trail goes up to the right along a steep grassy slope (40 minutes - 1 hour) and leads to a large stone on a flat area - "Middle Camps". From here, the ascent follows the trail along a grassy slope, then through the "Verbliud" (Camel) - a steep grassy slope - the trail comes out onto a moraine and further along the moraine and snowy slope to the saddle between the Soviet Voïn peak and the Kezgen-Bashi peak. The exit to the saddle is to the right of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the "Middle Camps" to the saddle - 3-3.5 hours. From the saddle, ascend to the left up the inner corner 5-6 m. Piton belay. Then, along simple rocks upwards in the direction of the ridge to the second inner corner. Traverse below the inner corner and up its right side 5-6 m. Then move onto a slab to the right and along the slab to a large protruding stone. From the stone, along moderately difficult rocks 20-25 m, reach a sharp ridge crest, from which then move onto a smooth inclined slab leading to the ridge of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the ridge - piton belay, handrail. Then along the ridge (simple rocks) ascend to the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the summit - 1-1.5 hours.

196. Peak Nikolayeva (3815 m) via the Eastern ridge from the North (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 38). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–12 people) to the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier with the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. From the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier (closed crevasses):

• Ascend 300–350 m along a wide snow-ice couloir or along the rocks on its left side (there is a risk of rockfall in the couloir) to the saddle on the ridge connecting Peak Nikolayeva on the right and Khitsan on the left.
• From the hut — 3–5 hours. The further ascent route is described in route 194. Descent along the southern slope (see route 193). Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Skalisty Range.
3. Peak Kion-Khokh (3421 m), via the Western ridge.
4. Estimated category complexity 2B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 400 m — including: the actual wall section — 40 m. Total route length — 1200 m. Length of the wall section — 60 m. Of which: category 5 complexity — 2 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 75°. Average steepness of the route — 30°.
6. Pitons hammered on the route: rock — 6/0.
7. Number of climbing hours/days: 6/1.
8. Overnight stays: none.

V. Uilpata

4648 m

Report

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the first ascent of the route to Mt. Uilpata via the ice gully along the Southern ridge "3B" (c) Tomsk, 2008 Participants: Temerev I.M. Terekhin V.A.

Table of Contents

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
2. Name of the peak: Dalar via the left part of the N wall.
3. Proposed — 6A category of complexity (Snesarev — Shopin combination)
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference: 950 m. Route length — 1200 m. Length of sections:
   • 5th cat. diff. – 415 m
   • 6th cat. diff. – 280 m

PASSPORT

1. Category — rock.
2. Caucasus, Aksaut gorge.
3. Marukh-kaya peak via the N slope and W ridge.
4. Proposed — 3A cat. diff. (combined), first ascent.
5. Height difference — 400 m, length — 650 m. Average steepness of the route — 35–40°.
6. Pits were not left on the route.
7. Climbing hours on the route — 8.
8. Overnight stops — I (on Marukhkay pass).