Arfen Cher-burun — 4

Authors: Streltsov S., Zakutin A., Sevastopol city

"Piranha" Route 6A, VI, A3, 236 m, Cape Aya. Peak with elevation 235.2 m ("Arfen") Streltsov S., Zakutin A. September 8, 2002

Tactics for wall traversal. I. Main recommendations are presented in the description of the "OBA-NA" route, 6A - 2001.

II. Watercraft

In the 2002 season, we used paired mattresses inserted into a single protective cover, which allowed:

• to completely eliminate their repair;
• to increase the rigidity, грузоподъемность, seaworthiness of the "vessel";
• to simplify landing on the wall.

III. Landing

· "Garderob" (R1 station) is located 8 m above the water and is equipped stationarily. · The ascent to R1 along the vertical wall is done on skyhooks along the relief. The start of the ascent is 2.5 m west of the vertical projection of the station. · After ascending to the station, a D 6 mm rope end is dropped from it towards the water: the small cross-section of the rope guarantees the safety of the equipment. · 1.5 m above the water, the following are attached to the mentioned rope:

• a short ladder
• a cargo ersatz-carabiner for fixing fins, pre-equipped with loops. · Daily changing "on the hang" requires prior practice according to the scheme: "fins → зажимы → ascent → putting on the system" and vice versa. · A T T E N T I O N! A fall on the segments R0–R1–R2 threatens drowning!

IV. About the route

1. As much as the logic of the relief allows, the thread of the route is as close as possible to the line of falling water.
2. Unlike other routes, the exit via "Piranha" upwards from the R8 station is done vertically, not along the system of shelves III–IV cat. sl., leading eastward.
3. Due to this, the total length of complex segments V — VI cat. sl. reaches 160 m. Movement is predominantly on I.T.O., and the tension in work from R0 to R9 is practically the same.
4. For organizing перил, dülfers, etc., we indicate the distance between the supporting stations: R1–R3 = 42–43 m, R3–R5 = 45 m (deviation по вертикали — 5 m), R5–R8 = 49–50 m, R8–R9 = 49–50 m
5. The best position for a sitting bivouac is R8, possible on R6.
6. At the end of the interval R5–R6, to the right, there is an unstable vertical obelisk with a height of 2 m, cross-section — 0.5 m. Be careful!
7. If necessary, from the R6 station along the crack leading to the right upwards (III — IV к.т.), it is possible to exit to the summit.

V. Equipment

1. The prevailing cracks are 3–10 mm wide, going into the massif diagonally to the right, suitable for universal hooks with a "left" bend of the ear.
2. A high corrosion wear of the шлямбуры installed at the bottom of the wall (R1–R3) in 1996 is noted. (We advise duplicating all encountered hooks!)
3. In the first 12 m above R8, an extremely dangerous layer of sandy crushed limestone is exposed. Cracks are filled with secondary calcite — insurance is unreliable. It is necessary to add 1–2 шлямбурных крюка.
4. On the segment R5–R6, закладки will come in handy. They will also be justified on the 8–12 and 40–50 meter intervals of R8–R9.
5. "Toporiki" and ice "морковки" are very useful on the "Piranha" route.
6. A reliable пробивник is mandatory.
7. The lower 90 m of the route are prone to rockfall. (A helmet for the belayer).
8. The belayer will be grateful for a rigid plywood "беседка"; кроме того, it facilitates "стрип­тиз" in the "га­ре­до­бе".
9. A container for issuing rope from the insurance point will keep the ropes dry.
10. The total time of movement of the связки leader on the ascent is 27 hours; командное, spent over 7 calendar days on crossings, landing, перильные работы, etc. — 60–65 hours.
11. Upon repeated passage, the number of I.T.O. will decrease to 80–90 units, and the total passage time — to 45–50 hours.
12. It is desirable to plan a rest day after the first three days of work, as well as to pay increased attention to reserving time and resources in case of unstable weather.

From the summit, a note from the связки Streltsov S., Zakutin A. dated August 18, 2001, about the passage of the "OBA-NA" route 6A cat. sl. was taken. · In our opinion, the "PIRANHA" route can be evaluated as 6A cat. sl.