Balchik-Kaya — 3. "Alighieri"

Massif: Balchik-Kaya Difficulty: 4B Authors: Lav­ri­nen­ko A., Maksimenko S. Year of creation: 2013 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 240 m Route description: Wall height difference is 180 m. Route length is 230–240 m. The wall is quite monolithic.

R0–R1: 55 m. Up to the right, over easy terrain, reach an inclined grassy ledge (20 m II). Along the ledge leftwards and upwards, then via an easy inner corner (5 m II) up and leftwards to a second ledge. Along the ledge and easy terrain, leftwards and upwards towards a small deciduous tree. Belay station on the tree and on personal anchors.

R1­–R2: 40 m. Upwards via a steep inner corner (10 m V). Further, the corner gradually eases, exit onto a ledge, then towards a pine tree (20 m IV, III). From the pine tree upwards and rightwards, via a slab, reach a small tree (10 m). Belay station on personal anchors.

R2­–R3: 27 m. Upwards via a system of inner corners. The corners are overgrown with grass, some "hollow-sounding" blocks are encountered. Belay station before a small overhang on personal anchors (piton, placements). V+A1

R3­–R4: 30 m.

• Upwards, circumvent the overhang via a right-hand gap (10 m V)
• Exit onto a gentler slope, further upwards towards an inner corner, then via the corner (15 m VA1); a huge "hollow-sounding" slab is on the right
• Exit onto an inclined grassy ledge
• Upwards along the ledge, through bushes towards the wall — 5 m

Belay station on personal anchors (piton, placements)

R4–R5: 35 m.

• Leftwards and upwards via an inclined inner corner, exit onto a ledge (II–III)

Belay station on personal anchors (piton)

R5–R6: 50 m. The pitch is shared with the "Beatrice" route (O. Popov; M. Kashirsky; M. Nikitinskaya).

From the belay station leftwards and upwards onto a pinnacle, further via an overhanging inner corner, upwards — 10 m (V+). Then exit the corner rightwards and upwards — towards a tree. From the tree, traverse leftwards, then upwards — onto a pinnacle (IV). From the top of the pinnacle, 5 m to a bolt (Skyhook, anchors), then a 5-meter pendulum with a re-climb leftwards, exit onto a small ledge (10 m, VA2). Along the ledge leftwards, then via large boulders, enter an angle-couloir overgrown with bushes. Upwards along the couloir (II). Belay station before the exit onto the yaila — on personal anchors (placements, anchors).

Difficulty is approximately 4B–5A

Wall height difference is 180 m.

Route length is 230–240 m.

The wall is quite monolithic.