Balchik-Kaya — 5A "Novogodniy" (New Year)
Massif: Balchik-Kaya Complexity: 5A Author: Lavrinenko A Year of route creation: 2013 Length: 205 m Time to complete: 12 hours
1. Crimea, South Coast
- Balchik-Kaya 810 m "Novogodniy"
- Proposed — 5A category
- Route type: rock climbing
- Elevation gain: 170 m; Route length: 205 m.
Section lengths: V category — 115 m. Average slope: main part of the route — 65°
- Pitons left on the route:
total: 5; including bolted: 5
- Team's walking hours: 12 hours, 2 days
- Lavrinenko A
Participants: Perevalov M
- Exit to the route from the base camp:
Route started: December 27, 2013; reached the summit: December 28, 2013.
- Organization: alpinist club "Odessa"
- Lavrinenko A. odlavr@gmail.com The route goes through the left part of the wall via a system of internal corners. Overall, the rocks are monolithic, but there are some destroyed areas. At each station, a bolt (Spit) was placed.
R0–R1, 40 m. Follow the couloir, simple climbing, reach an inclined ledge, approach the wall.
Up the wall, reach a ledge that goes to the right. Follow the ledge until it ends.
Then descend to the right, to the base of a small internal corner.
Up the corner, to an inclined ledge.
Station.
15 m 1B; 5 m 2B; 10 m 3A; 5 m 5B 1–2 20 m.
Up to the left, towards an internal corner, then follow an overhanging corner 10 m up, then climb out to a small ledge.
15 m 5B; 5 m 4A.
2–3 45 m. From the station, up the corner, then move left and enter an internal corner. Up the corner, reach a flattening. Simple rocks up, to a ledge. Station. 35 m 5B;
10 m II 3–4 35 m. From the station, move left and enter an internal corner. Rocks are destroyed. Up the corner, then overcome a small overhang and move up. Rocks are overgrown with grass, with live rocks in some places. Station on a ledge. 15 m V; 20 m IV
4–5 35 m. From the station, up to the left via an internal corner, then via a diagonal crack reach a small ledge under overhangs.
- 15 m IV
- 20 m V+A2
5–6 30 m. Move 3 m to the right and up through an overhang, enter an internal corner. Up the corner to the yayla.
5 m A2+; 20 m V; 5 m III. In terms of complexity and terrain, the route is similar to "Strelka" on Chelebi.
