Balchik-Kaya — 2. “Beatrice”

Massif: Balchik-Kaya. Grade: 5A. Authors: O. Popov, M. Kashirsky

Year of route creation: 2012. Route description:

• R0–R1 40 m. Over simple and moderately difficult terrain along the ridge, then reach the ridge. 40 m III

R1–R2 50 m. Up the complex wall, then over simpler terrain reach a grassy ledge, from the ledge up to a tree.

• 5 m V
• 5 m IV
• 40 m II

R2–R3 55 m. Up and left, approach a crack turning into an inside corner. Up the crack, then the corner. Station under a cornice.

• 10 m III
• 25 m V
• 20 m IV

R3–R4 30 m. Left under the cornice, then up to a ledge. Further up, then right; the terrain becomes simpler but more crumbly.

• 15 m V+A1
• 15 m IV

R4–R5 30 m. Up and right along a diagonal crack, reach a sloping ledge. Further right and up. Station under a cornice.

• 25 m V
• 5 m II

R5–R6 55 m

From the station:

• up and left, to a flake,
• then up a hanging inside corner for 10 meters (V+).

Then:

• exit the corner right and up to a tree,
• from the tree, traverse left, then up to a flake (IV).

Further:

• from the top of the flake, 5 m to a belay bolt (Skyhook, anchors),
• a 5-meter pendulum with a piton left, reach a small ledge (10 m VA2).

Along the ledge:

• left,
• then enter an angular couloir filled with bushes via large blocky terrain,
• up the couloir (II).

Station before reaching the yayla on personal gear (nuts, anchors).