Ayya — 2

Author: Streltsov S., Sevastopol

Cape Ayya. The wall with a mark of 394.2 m in the northern closure of the amphitheater of the "Lost World"

"Assol" Route

5B, V, A3, 220 m. Lyapun A., Streltsov S. — 1986 (variant I). 6A, VI, A3, 230 m. Streltsov S., Zakutin A., Streltsov M. — 2003 (variant II)

Route Description

• The beginning of the route goes along the ridge of the counterforce, framing the western boundary of the Main couloir (Internal corner).
• The ridge is convenient for climbing, provided with cracks for hooks.
• The direction of movement is the upper of the two shelves with large (up to 12 m)

Ai-Petri — 11

Author: Sergey Dashkevich, Yekaterinburg. Photos: Sergey Dashkevich, Yevgeny Novose­ltsev The weather was quite harsh, but that's what makes it more interesting. The route goes up the right part of the wall almost vertically. The start of the route is 15 meters to the right of a clearly visible sport climbing multi-pitch line. The rock here is very similar to the rocks at Koshka in Simeiz. It features the same honeycombed cavities, which provide excellent friction and allow for free climbing in many places. The first five pitches of the route are the key ones:

• Very steep
• With rare relief
• It's impossible to move by free climbing, organizing self-belay,

Crimea, Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A

The start of the route is marked with the number "2" at the base of the wall in blue paint. The route consists of four short ropes, passes through the left part of the wall, and ends with a large chimney. An old climbing route 2A, fully equipped with fixed protection. It can be considered as a multipitch. Descent rings are present at the stations. Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A F6a Angarskaya Wall. "Dvoika" Route 2A F6a (blue line on the photo, the first on the left)

Technical description of the route:

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Cherez komnatu" Route 3A

Angarskaya wall. "Cherez komnatu" Route 3A (F6b–6c).

The route passes through the inner corner to the right of "Dвойка" (Two) and gradually transitions under the overhanging cornice. This section of the wall is the first to be shaded after noon. It is worth noting the logical placement of bolts:

• on difficult sections, bolts are more frequent
• on easier sections, they are less frequent Angarskaya wall. "Cherez komnatu" Route 3A (line on the photo - second from the left)

Technical description of the route:

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Unitaz" route 3A

Angarskaya wall. "Unitaz" route 3A (total 4 pitches).

The route has many drilled belay anchors at all key sections. It can be recommended as a first 3A route for less confident climbers. Standard equipment. Routes of Angarskaya wall. "Unitaz" route 3A (green line)

Technical description of the route:

R0–R1: 40 m, IV. The start of the route is located 20 m to the right of "Acrophobia". The first belay anchor is visible from the ground.

• Up through a small overhang - a difficult section.
• Easier afterwards. Belay station on anchors. R1–R2: 30 m, III.

Crimea, Angarskaya Wall. Route "Troyka" 3A

Angarskaya Wall. Classic via chimney 3A (V. Goncharov — V. Gumenyuk (Yalta)).

Equipment:

• Large-sized chocks
• Large friends/camalots
• Large-sized hexes
• 10 quickdraws Time to complete the route for an average team: 3 hours. On the far right in the photo: Route "Classic via chimney" 3A

Crimea, Angarskaya Wall. "Serp" Route 4B

Angarskaya Wall. "Serp" Route 4B Start: V. Zasypkin — Kh. Kornys (Simferopol). Finish: Yu. Chernyaev, A. Veselov, Yu. Tronov (Simferopol). The route starts from the memorial plaque in memory of A. Veselov. Routes and multipitches of Angarskaya Wall Angarskaya Wall. "Serp" Route 4B (orange line)

Technical description of the route:

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B

Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B (Li­sha­ev Yu. (Fan­tik))

Required equipment:

• a set of quickdraws
• a set of nuts
• a set of cams
• hammers and pitons are desirable Large cams, hexes, as well as small nuts work well! Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Appenditsit" Route 4B

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Angarskaya wall. "Appenditsit" Route 4B (Samulev E. - start, Lishaev Yu. - finish).

A complex and tense line without drilled holes and auxiliary points on the crux. In some places, there are many loose rocks, and in some places, it's hard to organize belays. It can be rightfully considered the most challenging route on the entire wall. Equipment:

• hammers and pitons
• a set of quickdraws
• medium and large nuts
• medium and large cams.

Arfen-Cher-Burun - 1. "Mirazh" Route 6A, VI, A

First ascenders: S. Streltsov - A. Lyapunov (1992) The section from Sevastopol to Balaklava is a sheer coast, in some places up to 200 m high. The area is heavily eroded. There are no cliffs suitable for climbing. Mt. Arfen-Cher-Burun, East wall. Arrows at the bottom indicate the route start To the east of Balaklava, the picture changes dramatically. About 5 km from Balaklava, along the coast, a 235-meter vertical rocky peak rises straight from the sea. This is a spur of the Arfen-Cher-Burun massif. It takes about 40 minutes to reach the foot of the wall by boat from Balaklava. Having a reliable floating craft is mandatory, as the first