Balchik-Kaya — 4. "Golden Autumn"

Massif: Balchik-Kaya Authors: A. Shelkhakov, S. Bogoslovskaya

Year of route creation: 2013

Route description:

• R0–R1 35 m. Anchor station in a large mulde. III
• R1–R2 traverse 15 m V. Friends, nuts. Station — bush + belay anchor
• R2–R3 (left) chimney 35 m VI. Nuts, friends. Station — 2 anchors + 1 friend

R3–R4 55 m. Grassy crack, lots of pitons. VIA1. Station — 2 anchors + friend.

R4–R5 20 m.

III. Climbing along the ridge. 2 anchors.

Station at the ridge break — 3 anchors.

R5–R6 — to the left wall along the leaning scree 12 m up (bolts) A2 (bolts), climbing the slab 6B (5 m), 35 m — vertical cracks. VIA 1, lots of scree.

Station in the gray mulde — grotto on a bolt + own anchor + hourglass.

R6–R7 through overhang 5 m — climbing, 10 m. ATO A2 (anchors + friend). Slab (bolts) climbing straight up; or to the right VI (4 m) to a thin lying slab (not reaching the bush) and straight up the crack VI (6 m) to the crack under the summit belt. Further:

• 4 m under the ledge (friends, nuts)
• Behind the ledge — anchor
• ATO + climbing 5 m to the summit. Station on a tree 10 m from the plateau edge.