So­kol — 9

Jap­o­n­sky sa­dik 5A cat. dif. (Yu. Li­sh­ayev)

R0–R1: 40 m, 6a+, A1. In some places natural protection is in destroyed cracks. Station on existing pitons and personal protection gear. Be careful, rocks are destroyed. R1–R2: 35–40 m, 5b. Careful exit to a ledge with trees (so-called "Japanese garden"). Station on one of the trees. R2–R3: 45–50 m, 5b+. Even climbing along the crack, with convenient belay organization. Exit to the station is to the right out of the crack, 6–7 m along the slabs to the ledge. Station on two bolts on the ledge. R3–R4: 45–50 m, 5c+. Even climbing along the crack upwards to the "nashlyapka"

Sokol — 10

Two Cornices 5A cat. dif. (A. Shelkhakov — D. Popov, autumn 2000)

R0–R1: 25 m, 5a. Careful climbing on a ruined crack, insurance is not easy to organize. Station on a bolt and own gear (going further is difficult due to friction). R1–R2: 15–20 m, 5a. Slab climbing, insurance on bolts + own. Station on a bush. R2–R3: 25 m, 5b. Slab climbing, own insurance on an overgrown crack (pitons, nuts). Station on a small tree. R3–R4: 40–45 m, 5a. In the direction of a large tree. Insurance is easy to organize. Station on a tree. R4–R5: 15 m, 5B. Traverse on a slab to the left upwards. Station on two bolts. R5–R6: 35–40 m, 5C+. From the station, a couple of meters to the left and then up after a bolt, into a crack. Along it to the end, then up the slab, own insurance, at the end of the slab a bolt leading to the right. Station in a niche on a shelf, to the right of a chimney, on bolts. R6–R7: 20–25 m, 6B+. Return to the base of the chimney (there is a bolt) and then 15 m up. Then to the left wall of the chimney (there is a bolt during the transition), then 7–8 m to the station under an overhang. Station on bolts. R7–R8: 15–20 m, 6B+, A1. Up the crack through an overhang, after exiting to a vertical — move to the right by climbing. Station on a tree.

Sokol – 12 y.o.

Ryжий угол (Red corner) 5A cat. diff. #26

R0–R2: 100 m, simple climbing straight up to the right (start as in "Galochka" mt.). R2–R3: 35 m, 5b+. Dangerous rope due to crumbling rock. Belay is relative. Station on a micro-shelf in the corner on a piton and a new bolt. R3–R4: 35 m, 6a+, A2. Difficult, overhanging rope. Protection on pitons and some own (big cams). In the upper part, loose rocks, be careful. Better to move left to a crack. Station on a ledge on bolts. R4–R5: 50 m, 5c. Hard climbing on quite crumbling terrain. Protection is difficult. Station on a half-lying tree on a ledge. R5–R6: 35 m. Easy traverse rightwards along the ledge towards "Galochka". Station on a tree. Then you can go in two ways:

• left through a "gully", towards "Grebnevaya dvojka" and then along it;
• continue rightwards along the ledge till the junction with "Galochka" route.

Equipment:

Rope 50–60 m, nuts, cams (big sizes mandatory), extenders, 1–3 ladders, 14–16 quickdraws, hammer, pitons.

General impressions:

Difficult 5A, requiring the ability to realistically assess the situation and organize belay properly. The skill level of "Pravyj Romb" (Right Rhombus) may be insufficient for this route. Climbing time for an average team is 5–6 hours

Sokol (Crimea) — "Amazonka" 5A

Sokol mountain. Crimea A new route has been passed on Sokol mountain in Crimea. Participants of the ascent:

• Maxim Kuralesov, Nikopol city
• Mikhail Poddubnov, Dnipropetrovsk city The length of the route is 300 m. The proposed category of complexity is 5A. This ascent is not a first ascent in the pure form. According to information from Sergey Nadtochy, the lower four sections were once climbed by Vladimir Kudrigsky, but he was not the first ascender either. There were indeed pitons there. Above, there were no traces. Although the inner corner leading to the yayla could have been used as a finish for the routes:

So­kol — 16

Along the counter­forc­ed left breast 5A cat. diff.[№24]

R0–R1: 45 m, 6b+. Climbing a system of internal corners with an exit to the ridge, with a problem to organize belays, especially in the upper part. Requires a safety margin in climbing and mental toughness. Belay station on a bolt + own gear, under an overhang on the left. Quite a dangerous transition to the station, from the ridge under the overhang! R1–R2: 30–35 m, 6c+, A2. Climbing:

• Left and then up to the right
• Unpleasant climbing on jammed rocks
• Further up a vertical crack in the direction of a tree Belay: own + three bolts available (one new). Especially dangerous is the exit to the tree. Station in an internal corner after the tree on own gear. R2–R3: 25–30 m, 5B. Simple climbing on corners and cracks with easy belay organization (careful climbing on live rocks). Station on a ledge on own gear. R3–R4: 50 m, 6A+. Careful climbing on a system of ledges and internal corners in the direction of a large gnarled tree. Belay is easy to organize. Station in a niche behind the gnarled tree… sinking in fallen leaves.

Sokol — 23 45 m, 85′ Sokol, m-t "Zapятая" 5A, F6b (or V+, A1), 230 m

Description prepared by: Maksim Kostrov and Olga Kostrova

From the asphalted observation deck on the road, move first along the slope overgrown with forest, then:

• left along the rocky mulde to a long shelf going left;
• from the shelf to the right upwards along the slabs and trees to a large shelf under the wall.

Sokol — 32

"Figure Eight" 5A

The second name of this route is "Bolted Path". There are indeed bolts there. Climb simple rocks to a ledge under the wall. The starting point of the route is marked by a figure-eight-shaped ledge in the lower part of the wall. To the right of it on the ledge, there is a slab. The route's name is carved on the rock. R1 — up first on the slab, then on the wall with bolts to the belay station. R1 40 m 80° VI — R2 — vertically up to the next belay station. From here, after traversing to the right, you can reach the second belay station of "Rusty Cornice". R2 40 m 80° V. R3 — up and traverse left into an internal corner. Follow it to a large ledge. Then, through a hanging section and to the right. Belay station on a ledge on a shelf. R3 40 m 75° V. R4 — up through a chimney (onto the upper ledge) and further up slabs (after 6–7 meters, there are bolts and old pitons) under a cornice in the form of an angle to the left of the Rusty Cornice. Traverse left to a tree. Belay station on the tree. R4 50 m 75° V. From the tree, bypassing a hanging section on the left, 6–8 meters to the plateau.

So­kol — 36

Gran' — 5А

The route runs parallel to Fantikov's "Bro­vi". Start — under the left edge of the "Brov'" cornice. Well-equipped with bolts, all stations on bolts. R1 — up the right black streak under the left edge of the "Brov'" cornice along a sheer wall (bolts) 10 m on aid climbing, then a traverse left to the beginning of an internal corner. Enter it through a cork and up to a bulge in the shape of a bottle with the neck facing down. On the right side of the Bottle, climb up to a bulge and traverse 2 m to the right. Station on 3 bolts. R1 — 40 m, 80°, VI-, A2. R2 — Traverse right, and through cracks, moving left, exit under the "Brov'" cornice left of

Sokol-37

Brow 5B

Classic Fantikov's fifth category route, passes through an overhang in the right part of the wall. A beautiful and logical route, not very difficult. The start of the route is under the overhang from the shelf to the right of the slab leaning against the wall. Two parallel cracks lead to the overhang, converging about 10 meters above the shelf. Climb via the right one. Well-equipped, recently repaired. R1 — Up the slabs (bolts) 10 m, then traverse right (to the right crack), into a little corner, along it, then along the crack to the belay station (2 bolts). R1 40 m 80° V+. R2 — Up under the overhang (via a flake, protection — friends), through the overhang via bolts. Immediately after the overhang is the belay station. R2 15 m 95° V A1.

Author: Yu. Vasilenko

Description of the "Brov'" route, 5A, Sokol mountain

The route is very beautiful and diverse in climbing. Stations on bolts. Nowadays, the route has been re-drilled by Misha Voloshinovskiy for climbing and is done mostly with free climbing, except for the "brov'" section. To start, one needs to approach the wall from the road. The climbing is similar to 3rd category routes, and belaying needs to be organized. The start of the route is on a ledge under the "Brov'" cornice, to the right of a slab leaning against the wall. At this spot, two gaps lead under the cornice. One can move either through the right or the left gap. Sokol, Brov' route, 5A R0–R1: 45–50 m, 6b, belaying on bolts + own protection, station on a bolt and two pitons (the left variant of reaching the station requires a pendulum). The start of the first rope is through a slab, which is the crux of the rope. The climbing is mixed, with free climbing interspersed with aid climbing, and constant "under-climbing". 1st variant.

• Climb 10 m up the slabs, then traverse right to the "right" gap, and up through it to the station. 2nd variant.