So­kol — 36

Gran' — 5А

The route runs parallel to Fantikov's "Bro­vi". Start — under the left edge of the "Brov'" cornice. Well-equipped with bolts, all stations on bolts.

R1 — up the right black streak under the left edge of the "Brov'" cornice along a sheer wall (bolts) 10 m on aid climbing, then a traverse left to the beginning of an internal corner. Enter it through a cork and up to a bulge in the shape of a bottle with the neck facing down. On the right side of the Bottle, climb up to a bulge and traverse 2 m to the right. Station on 3 bolts. R1 — 40 m, 80°, VI-, A2.

R2 — Traverse right, and through cracks, moving left, exit under the "Brov'" cornice left of the white square spot on the cornice. Through the cornice (bolt) and then vertically up to a ledge. Station on 2 bolts. This ledge connects three routes — Hohl, Gran', and Brov'. R2 50 m 80° V.

R3 — Vertically up on a bolted route, initially on aid climbing, then free climbing. A skyhook can ease the passage. On a ledge is a station. R3 20 m 85° V+A1.

R4 —

  • Traverse left along the ledge 3–5 m, then up through an overhang on bolts to a small shelf (10 cm) 5 m from the cornice.
  • On the cornice, there's a bolt directly above the previous one (the one you're hanging on). It can be hard to spot, but it's there.
  • On the shelf, traverse left into an internal corner, up the corner under the cornice, and under the cornice, traverse right (aid climbing) to a bolt on the cornice (it's advisable to have large friends, pitons).
  • An alternative is right and up on smooth velvety slabs under the cornice and traverse left (more interesting, but harder free climbing).
  • Having reached the cornice — up the slabs (bolts) to the yayla.

R4 40 m 85° V+A2. img-0.jpeg

Sources

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