So­kol — 16

Along the counter­forc­ed left breast 5A cat. diff.[№24]

R0–R1: 45 m, 6b+. Climbing a system of internal corners with an exit to the ridge, with a problem to organize belays, especially in the upper part. Requires a safety margin in climbing and mental toughness. Belay station on a bolt + own gear, under an overhang on the left. Quite a dangerous transition to the station, from the ridge under the overhang!

R1–R2: 30–35 m, 6c+, A2. Climbing:

• Left and then up to the right
• Unpleasant climbing on jammed rocks
• Further up a vertical crack in the direction of a tree

Belay: own + three bolts available (one new). Especially dangerous is the exit to the tree. Station in an internal corner after the tree on own gear.

R2–R3: 25–30 m, 5B. Simple climbing on corners and cracks with easy belay organization (careful climbing on live rocks). Station on a ledge on own gear.

R3–R4: 50 m, 6A+. Careful climbing on a system of ledges and internal corners in the direction of a large gnarled tree. Belay is easy to organize. Station in a niche behind the gnarled tree… sinking in fallen leaves.

R4–R5: 40 m, 5A+. Climbing:

• Up,
• Then along the bastion of the left breast,
• Bypassing a gendarme on the right.

Station behind the gendarme on two bolts (R3 of route №25 “Ga­loch­ka”).

R5–R6: 40–45 m, 5b+. Climbing:

• From the gendarme to the right up 10–12 m,
• Then traverse to a tree.

Station on a tree.

R6–R7: 35–40 m, 5b+. Climbing:

• From the tree to the right up in the direction of a juniper tree.

Station on a large juniper tree (common station with routes “Me­zhdu grud­ey”, “Ko­sa­ya che­ty­rka”, and “De­re­vyan­na­ya tro­yka”).

R7–R8: 55 m, 5c. Belay on bolts and pitons, own gear as needed. Station on two bolts, on a comfortable ledge. With a 50 m rope, an intermediate station on a bolt behind a juniper bush is required, slightly short of the main station, then move to the main one.

R8–R9: 50 m, 5c+. Belay on numerous bolts and pitons. Bypass a characteristic tree with a jammed rock on the left (climb carefully on the rock). Station on two bolts on the edge of a plateau.

Route variation: from station R5, go to the ridge to the left up and continue on route “Ga­loch­ka” cat. diff. 3B.

Recommended equipment:

50–60 m rope, set of nuts and cams, 14–18 quickdraws, 4 large and 2–4 small slings, pitons mandatory, hammers, ladders optional (may be useful in one or two places).

General impression:

Strong 5A, with a good level of climbing. A lot of climbing on internal corners with problematic belays. First and second ropes are 6th grade, quite dangerous and requiring "bold" climbing. Requires experience of at least unprotected 5B. Time to complete for an average team is 4.5–5.5 hours.