Sokol — 39

The "Malevolent Dwarf" 5A, 255 m 6B, A2 Lavrinenko A., Tushko T. (August 7, 2007) The route starts 100 m to the right of the beginning of the approach to "Brov'" and "Gran'".

• R0–R1: Easy climbing up the cleft to a tree, 50 m 4.
• R1–R2: From the tree, go up to a ledge below the "Brov'" route, 60 m 5B.
• R2–R3: Climb up the corner formed by the wall and an overhanging rock; protection is hard to organize. The station is on a ledge on its own pitons, 35 m 6A+/5C, A1. R3–R4: From the station, go up and to the right into a cleft, bypassing "rattling" overhangs. Then follow the clefts, veering right at the top onto a ledge. The station is on a bolt and pitons. 60 m 5C. 4–5. From the station, start up the corner to the left for 5 m, then continue straight up. The terrain is rich but crumbling, with many unreliable blocks.
• Climb the inner corner (there's a bolt) to below an overhang
• Pass the overhang on pitons (pitons in place)

«Cornice in the fog» 5B, VI, A2+, 351 m (9 pitches). The route was climbed on 11–12.10.2013 by Zakolodnii A.V. and Olivson A.Ya. The route is interesting and varied, following the natural terrain. The route passes between the «Two cornices» 5A and «Red corner» 5A routes, through the center of the two cornices. Two bolts were left on the stations along the route. Sokol mountain routes (Crimea)

Technical description.

«Cornice in the fog» 5B, VI, A2+, 351 m (9 pitches) From the road, orienting on a large red overhang in the lower part of the wall, approach the route. The first station is on a cypress tree. R0–R1 30 m. V. From the tree up to a large tree at the beginning of a large corner. Station on a large tree. R1–R2 50 m. VI, A2. Up the corner to the second horizontal crack 20 m. IV. Then traverse left to a system of small slots and cavities 8 m. V. Further up, orienting on a gully with bushes 22 m. VI, A2. Station in the upper part of the gully on personal anchors.

So­kol — 22

Authors: Se­rey Nad­to­chiy (Terr), Aleksandr Kuz­mi­ts­kiy “Be­lyy kvadr­at” (White Square) 5B/6A F6c, A2, 300 m — So­kol, Crimea So­kol Over the past year, a lot of work has been done to describe alpinist routes on the So­kol massif, which is located in Su­dak (Crimea). There are already descriptions of more than 30 routes (not counting variations), and several new ones have been climbed. The work is not yet finished and will continue, so it is too early to talk about the results, but apparently, all the collected information will take the form of a printed guidebook.

Sokol ­— 24

Author: Alex Kuzmitsky, Moscow New route on Sokol: "Zapakh zhenshchiny" (6c, A2+) I wanted to climb this line for a long time, but it didn't work out. Either I had to walk and describe routes for the guidebook, or help Terr пробивать rock climbing trails on Bolvan. And there was never enough time for a new project. Finally, during the last May holidays, I found time to implement my plan. Tension. There should be no more and no less bolts than required for safe passage of the route. This is important. Moreover, you need to try not to lose the thread and not lead the route somewhere to the side or to the wrong crack by mistake. Experience, sense of relief and preliminary preparation help here, when you spend hours examining the wall, studying section by section of the proposed line. gratitude to Lena Kuznetsova for kind words and humor, Andrey Petrov for support and being there, Misha Volkov for endurance, Yulia Kuznetsova for intolerance in views and critical thinking, Tolya Dzhuliy for guitar and arrival, Den Zhilin for acquaintance and openness, Terr for "Russian translation" and everything else, Igor Petrov for hospitably hosting us again at his rescue service and, of course, to my partner Zhenya Kholodov for hard work and iron will. R2­–­R3: 40 ­m, 5B. Up and then to the right along the crack with grass, through several characteristic bushes. Insurance with nuts and pitons. Station on two bolts at the end of the crack, next to a large almost dead belay ledge.

Sokol — 25

Bodun 5Б difficulty category (A. Sergeev, also known as "Kommunist") Bodun 1st rope R0–R1: 25–30 m, 6c, A2+. Even, interesting slabby artificial terrain with some 5c–6c climbing sections. The first few meters have a risk of falling onto the belayer from a considerable height. After the second bolt (third one), traverse right to a poorly visible piton, then go up, aiming for the left part of the cornice. The belay station is on two bolts. R1–R2: 25 — 30 m, 5B, A0. Re-clip through bolts and pitons up into the left corner of the cornice, then traverse right and up with your own protection. The belay station is on two bolts and a piton. R2–R3: 35 m, 5B. Up the overgrown crack, then move left across the slab 3–5 m to an internal corner. Protection is your own + bolts and pitons. The belay station is in the internal corner on two bolts and a piton. R3–R4: 50 m, 5B. Protection is on bolts and pitons + your own. The belay station is on a bolt and a piton in the internal corner. R4–R5: 30–35 m, 6A. The belay station is in the internal corner under an overhanging wall. R5–R6: 25 m, 6C.

• Through the overhang (two bolts)

Crimea, So­kol mountain. "Dzhaksy" Route

So­kol. "Dzhaksy" Route (Nadt­ochiy S., Lav­ri­nen­ko A., February 5, 2008), 6A

The route turned out to be interesting, challenging, and ambiguous in terms of orientation on the terrain. Places for pitons, anchors, and skyhooks need to be found among the resonant slabs and scaly exfoliations. The overall complexity is 5b+ (in other words, it's 6A, but not long enough to be real). Many parts of the route can be climbed, but most likely, they will be aided, as it's very difficult to organize protection while climbing. A team with experience in climbing routes of this type (e.g., "Machembo") can complete this route in:

• 7–9 hours. So­kol. "Dzhaksy" Route 6A The route is called "Dzhaksy," which translates from Kazakh to Russian as "Хорошо" (Good). The total length of the route is 225 meters, with a complexity of 5B+ (i.e., practical 6A, but not quite). The approaches to the route are simple, and everything can be walked without being tied up, which cannot be said about the route itself.

Technical Description of the Route:

• R0–R1: 40 m, key climbing spot 5C, overall 5B+, protection is simple on pitons and cams. Station on 2 bolts hammered by A. Sergeev (Communist).

So­kol — 29

Ho­hla po ze­re­ka­lam 5B cat. dif.[№14]

(A. Kruglenko, aka «Ho­hol») Ho­hla po ze­re­ka­lam 2nd rope R0–R1: 50 m, 6B, A1. Up the crack through a characteristic tree, then up left to a neat traverse left to a piton. After it — a tricky move (hole). Station on a bollard and pitons. R1­–­R2: 50­–­55 ­m, 6B, A1. Up and slightly left via a system of cracks to a bollard, through it — exit to a flattening, then right up a neat traverse

"The Final Stroke" (5b).

We made the first attempt to climb the route with Max Polyakov in winter 2009, but various reasons prevented us from completing it. We removed the ropes and left. Now, on April 1 and 2, Sanya Khomenko and I finished the route. Description by sections: the route starts from the same ledge as "Vosemorka", "Pesnya", "Khokhol cherez zerkala", and goes between "Pesnya" and "Khokhol". The beginning is easy to read; there is a bolt 8 meters above the ledge. Sokol, "The Final Stroke" route (5B). The route line is highlighted in blue. High-resolution photo 0–1 A small approach, then onto the bolts to a piton, from it up to the right to a crack with grass. Up through a series of cracks, sometimes on a slab. Belay station on a bolt and a hook. 40 m, A3. From the station, it's recommended to climb to the next bolt without accepting the belay to reduce the fall factor. 1–2 Up to the right on a slab with cavities (anchors, skyhooks), get over the bend, then on a more gentle slab to the station. There's a bolt. 35 m, VI, A3. 2–3 From the station, up to the left through an overgrown crack for about 10 meters, then ITO on the slab in the direction up to the left to a sloping ledge. On it, a station — a bolt and an anchor. 40 m, VI, A3. 3–4 From the station, 4 meters up to the left, then up on the slab to a small ledge, up to the right to the second ledge. From its left part, up through a series of cracks. Station on a bolt. 35 m, VI, A3. 4–5 From the station, up to the left, then up into an internal corner formed by the edge of a large flake and a wall. Up the corner, then up to the right under a small cornice. Through the cornice up to the right, then traverse to the right onto a ledge. Station on a bolt and a hook. 35 m, V, A3.

Sokol. "Pesnya" (Lebedinaya pesnya / Swan Song) route 5B (V+ A2 188 m), 5 pitches. First ascent: A. Kruglenko (Feodosiya) — A. Paksyutkin (Simferopol), 2007. The start of the route is from the large starting ledge as described for routes №31–38 (according to the guidebook) of Sector II. Routes of the Central Sector of Sokol

Technical description of the route:

• R0–R1: (48 m, V+ A1+) From the starting ledge, the first few meters follow the bolts of the "Vos'merka / Eight" route, then move up, bypassing the bulge shaped like an "eight" on the right. Above the bulge, use the corners and cracks to reach a plate and follow it to an inclined, overgrown corner (anchors, pitons, "carrot" left by the authors). Set up a belay station in the corner on your own protection points.
• R1–R2: (45 m, V+ A2) Move up through the plate to the base of an overgrown crack, then up the crack for 18 m. From here, move left "to 11 o'clock" across the plate to a small ledge. There is little relief for protection. Protection:

New route on Sokol "AlisA" 5B

In Crimea (Sudak region) on Sokol mountain between "Vos'merka" and "Ryzhiy Ugol" routes a new route "AlisA" 5B has appeared. Sokol mountain (Sudak) The "AlisA" route is 160 m long from R0. The start of the route is the same as the R0 station of "Ryzhiy Ugol". On the wall, there is an inscription "AlisA". You need to go through a vertical slit - a groove above the inscription.□

Thread of the "AlisA" route

R1, R2, R3 stations are equipped with rappel rings. R4 station is on a plateau - a tree. The route is thoroughly cleaned of loose rocks and flakes. The route is recommended for well-prepared climbers in technical and psychological terms.

• relief skyhooks
• hole skyhooks
• vertical and horizontal cams
• topo guides in sufficient quantity