Sokol (Crimea) — "Amazonka" 5A

Sokol mountain. Crimea

A new route has been passed on Sokol mountain in Crimea.

Participants of the ascent:

• Maxim Kuralesov, Nikopol city
• Mikhail Poddubnov, Dnipropetrovsk city

The length of the route is 300 m. The proposed category of complexity is 5A.

This ascent is not a first ascent in the pure form. According to information from Sergey Nadtochy, the lower four sections were once climbed by Vladimir Kudrigsky, but he was not the first ascender either. There were indeed pitons there. Above, there were no traces.

Although the inner corner leading to the yayla could have been used as a finish for the routes:

• "Dva karniza" (Two Cornices) 5A
• "Ryzhy ugol" (Red Corner) 4B

It seems that the middle section was not climbed before. But, be that as it may, the main thing is not the number of meters climbed, but the fact that a new route has appeared.

The route turned out to be interesting and challenging. For organizing belays and ITO (Intermediate Technical Obstacles), a large amount of diverse equipment and the ability to use it are required.

Stations or trees or a piton (1=80 mm, d=10 mm), supplemented by one's own pitons.

The "Amazonka" 5A route — the route line

"Amazonka" 5A — the route line, lower section

Passing the R2–R3 section, photo in larger format.

The R2–R4 section

Route description

R3–R4 38 m — along an overgrown crack. After 25 meters, a piton. From it upwards to a curved tree. Station — piton plus one's own equipment. Coincides with the R7 station of the "Mashina Vremeni" (Time Machine) 6A route. (38 m V)

R4–R5 15 m

• Traverse left 3 m, there is a hole
• Further upwards to a large tree

(7 m VI A2; 8 m V)

R5–R6 55 m

• Upwards to the left to a small tree
• Then upwards in the direction of a large pine tree

Station on the pine tree. (55 m V)

R6–R7 60 m

• Oblique traverse to the left into an inner corner
• Further along the corner

Station — piton plus one's own equipment. (60 m IV)

R7–R8 20 m

• Along the inner corner to the yayla
• Bypass the large overhang on the left

Station on the yayla on a tree. (20 m III)

Recommended equipment:

• a set of stoppers and friends
• many pitons of different types
• many anchors
• relief skyhooks and one hole skyhook
• ladders
• 18 quickdraws
• 60 m rope

Throughout the entire route, the belay is predominantly piton-based. Sections passed with the help of ITO are not equipped with pitons, which requires awareness of one's actions. Experience with unbolted 5A routes is required.