So­kol — 49

I want 36 cat. sl.[№7]

(A. Kuz­mit­sky — S. Na­dto­chiy, November 2005) R0–R1: 35 m, 5Б+. Climb­ing in the crack be­tween the wall and an at­tached block, then up­ward through the left-hand crack to a ledge in­side the in­ter­nal cor­ner; belay is self-pro­vided. Sta­tion in­side the in­ter­nal cor­ner. R1–R2: 35–40 m, 6А. Care­ful climb­ing up­ward through the crack. Then exit onto a ledge and move right up­ward along it, be­neath the base of a char­ac­ter­is­tic gully. Sta­tion on a tree. R2­–­R3: 35­–­40 m, 5c. Straight up­ward fol­low­ing the wa­ter­fall line, through a small jun­iper, care­ful slab climb­ing “on de­ter­mi­na­tion”; on the crux — a bol­lard. A few me­ters above, a sta­tion on a bol­lard + pro­tec­tion gear. R3­–­R4: 45­–­50 m, 5c. Pro­tec­tion is avail­able at times (dur­ing the first 15­–­18 m pro­tec­tion is

So­kol — 4

Along the val­le­ys and along the uplands, cat. 4B diff.

R0–R1: 35–40 m, 5b+. Pro­tec­tion is self-pro­vid­ed, can be or­ga­nized eas­i­ly, but only some­times. Sta­tion on a small tree on a shelf. R1–R2: 40 m, cat. 6A diff. Pro­tec­tion is self-pro­vid­ed, or­ga­niz­ing it is quite prob­lem­at­ic: pitons + nuts. At the end of the rope, there are a cou­ple of old piton. Un­com­fort­able sta­tion in the be­gin­ning of a de­te­ri­o­rat­ed crack on a bad piton and on own gear. R2–R3: 35 m, cat. 6A diff. Pro­tec­tion:

Sokol — 5

Rope 50–60 m, 14 quickdraws, nuts, cams, slings.

General Impression:

Interesting route, not cluttered with ironmongery. The route has something in common with the "Ear" on Foros, although the key rope section here is more challenging.

Sokol. The route on the right side of the left breast with exit to "Between the Breasts" 4A (A. Brynza — Kobylsky (Dnepropetrovsk)).

A rather interesting route if you climb from the road without shortening the ropes on the shelf. By taking the "shortcut," the route is not sufficiently loaded with difficulties for 4A; it's more like a heavy 3B — due to its length. Sokol. On the right side of the left breast with exit to "Between the Breasts" 4A

Technical description of the route:

• R0–R1: The first rope coincides with the "Between the Breasts" route. The station coincides.
• R1–R2: 45 m, 5c, insurance is organized easily:
• pitons

Sokol peak, "Zvezda" route, 4A (S. Nadtochiy, A. Shelkhakov; January 2008), lower ropes (S. Nadtochiy, E. Burkulai; 2010). General impression of the route:

• Beautiful and challenging 4A, doesn't quite reach 4B due to its relatively short length (only 5 pitches).
• Varied and technically demanding climbing. The route starts 4 meters to the left of the "Ne khochu" route. Approach to the route: see "Zhazhda" route. The "Zvezda" route begins with a crack, to the left of which the route's name is carved. In the upper part of the route, a rock tower (bastion) serves as a landmark, with a star drawn on its right side.

Crimea, Sokol mountain. "Ne hAchu" Route

Sokol. "Ne hAchu" Route (S. Nadtochiy — A. Kuzmenko — A. Lavrinenko, November 17, 2006) 4A The last rope pitch poses a serious danger: insurance is organized only by a hollow sound, bollards are hammered "for passage", and in case of a deep fall, there is a risk of tearing off a huge 15 m × 10 m flake on the station. Sokol. Routes:

• Vspomnit vse
• Bolshaya progulka
• Ne hAchu

Sokol. "Myth" Route 4B (author unknown).

Recommended equipment:

• Rope 60 m
• 14–16 quickdraws
• Set of nuts
• Set of cams (large 2–3 pieces will ease the process)
• Hammer is mandatory
• Pitons — mandatory
• Large slings

Falcon — 18

Author: Sovich Alexey, Kiev. The route description is based on the state as of August 19, 2003. Photos taken with a "Smena-8M" camera. "Fourth between the breasts" route, 4B category A fairly interesting 4B route. It can be a good warm-up before attempting Sokol's 5th category routes. Over the years, the route has changed slightly — it has become a bit more challenging:

• Rockfalls have destroyed several convenient trees.
• Water flows have smoothed out the relief on the second key — the лобке (forehead).
• For various reasons, there are fewer pitons on the route. In my opinion, all these changes have only made the route more mature. I believe the route is even more interesting than "White Triangle" (5A), especially in light of the recent changes. You also need to make your own belay points — there aren't many pitons here. For the route, it's sufficient to have:

Sokol — 27

«White Triangle» 5B

This is the most popular fifth category route on the Southern wall of Sokol. The route is pitoned perfectly, I recommend bringing:

• 18 quickdraws
• two Shtelnov's cams — first and eighth sizes It is considered that the route's grade is 5B, but, in my opinion, this assessment is somewhat overestimated. The approach is the same as for the "Comma". Having reached the ledge under the wall, move along it to the right till the end. On the way, there is an unpleasant passage, insurance is desirable. The start is under a

Author: Alexander Lav­rin­en­ko, Odesa

"Total Recall" Route 4B (SE wall)

• Lav­rin­en­ko A.
• Ku­zmen­ko A.
• Na­d­to­chiy S. (December 2006) The idea of the route belongs to "Terrorist", we even tried to accomplish it in January 2006, but were "blown away" by an unusually strong and cold wind. Almost a year later we returned. The route starts about 50 meters to the left of the "Gift Set" route. It's easy to find the beginning - a simple gentle internal corner. R0–R1 55 m 5B