Sokol-37

Brow 5B

Classic Fantikov's fifth category route, passes through an overhang in the right part of the wall. A beautiful and logical route, not very difficult. The start of the route is under the overhang from the shelf to the right of the slab leaning against the wall. Two parallel cracks lead to the overhang, converging about 10 meters above the shelf. Climb via the right one. Well-equipped, recently repaired.

R1 — Up the slabs (bolts) 10 m, then traverse right (to the right crack), into a little corner, along it, then along the crack to the belay station (2 bolts). R1 40 m 80° V+.

R2 — Up under the overhang (via a flake, protection — friends), through the overhang via bolts. Immediately after the overhang is the belay station. R2 15 m 95° V A1.

R3 — Up the slabs to a shelf, with some sections of artificial aids (via bolts). R3 35 m 80° V.

R4 — Along the slab (bolts), then along the crack to a shelf, along the shelf 5–7 m right to a bolt. R4 25 m 85° V A1.

R5 — Along gentle rocks to below an overhanging section, through the overhanging section up to the yayla. One can climb it free (there are pitons). R5 30 m 95° VI– A1.

According to unverified information, there are several other variations on the wall:

  • Marked in green (other routes are marked in red, their variations in blue)
  • Between routes 4 and 5 — an unfinished route
  • Between routes 7 and 8 — a variation of passing a red-brown overhang
  • To the right of "Brow" — 2 pitches up a crack to a shelf and a deviation to "Brost"

I apologize for using others' photographs — I didn't have any of my own. I would like to express my gratitude to the "Ryukzachok" equipment center for their support.

Sector 2

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Sources

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