Sokol —
23
45 m, 85′
Sokol, m-t "Zapятая" 5A, F6b (or V+, A1), 230 m
Description prepared by: Maksim Kostrov and Olga Kostrova
From the asphalted observation deck on the road, move first along the slope overgrown with forest, then:
- left along the rocky mulde to a long shelf going left;
- from the shelf to the right upwards along the slabs and trees to a large shelf under the wall.
The start of the "Zapятая" route is at the left end of this large shelf on a small tree, to the right of the "запятая" slap (a small weakly exfoliating slab, resembling a "mirror-reflected" fat comma from afar).
R0–R1: From the tree traverse left under the "запятая" slap, then from the left along the inner corner ascend to a shelf with a juniper on top of the "запятая" (5a). Further up along the boltholes to the crack. Up along the crack. At the end of the crack, go right and up along the slabs to approach two boltholes (6b). 6b, 40 m, 85° (in previous descriptions: V+, A1) R1–R2: Up along the slabs with boltholes (6a), then traverse right to a tree (5c). From it, go left upwards to a small ledge (4c). Station on "own" pitons. 6a, 45 m, 85° (in previous descriptions: V, A1) R2–R3: Left upwards along the slabs to a well-noticeable grassy inner corner. Up along the inner corner to a large tree. 4c, 50 m, 70° (in previous descriptions: IV–V) R3–R4: From the tree upwards for 7–8 meters, then traverse left into a gutter. Up along the gutter, and then along the inner corner to a shelf under a large overhanging block. Station on a bolthole and an old piton. 5b, 45 m, 80° (in previous descriptions: V) R4–R5: Up along the gap in the left part of the overhang (5a), then along the crack with "pleasant" holds ascend to a horizontal crack. Traverse 5–6 meters to the right along it (4c) and further along simple rocks (4a) exit to a tree on the edge of the yayla. 5a, 5 m; 4c, 35 m, 85° (in previous descriptions: V) Path of descent from Sokol mountain towards Novy Svet settlement