Sokol — 10

Two Cornices 5A cat. dif. (A. Shelkhakov — D. Popov, autumn 2000)

R0–R1: 25 m, 5a. Careful climbing on a ruined crack, insurance is not easy to organize. Station on a bolt and own gear (going further is difficult due to friction).

R1–R2: 15–20 m, 5a. Slab climbing, insurance on bolts + own. Station on a bush.

R2–R3: 25 m, 5b. Slab climbing, own insurance on an overgrown crack (pitons, nuts). Station on a small tree.

R3–R4: 40–45 m, 5a. In the direction of a large tree. Insurance is easy to organize. Station on a tree.

R4–R5: 15 m, 5B. Traverse on a slab to the left upwards. Station on two bolts.

R5–R6: 35–40 m, 5C+. From the station, a couple of meters to the left and then up after a bolt, into a crack. Along it to the end, then up the slab, own insurance, at the end of the slab a bolt leading to the right. Station in a niche on a shelf, to the right of a chimney, on bolts.

R6–R7: 20–25 m, 6B+. Return to the base of the chimney (there is a bolt) and then 15 m up. Then to the left wall of the chimney (there is a bolt during the transition), then 7–8 m to the station under an overhang. Station on bolts.

R7–R8: 15–20 m, 6B+, A1. Up the crack through an overhang, after exiting to a vertical — move to the right by climbing. Station on a tree.

R8–R9: 40 m, 4C. Simple climbing with own insurance in the direction of a double ridge.

Recommended equipment:

50 m rope, set of nuts and cams, 14 quickdraws, 4 large and 2–4 small slings, pitons are mandatory, hammers, 1–3 étriers.

Overall impression:

Normal 5A, with an average level of climbing. An analogy can be drawn with "Japanese Garden" 5A. The key place is the second cornice, which requires good climbing (or will have to use artificial aids). Time to complete for an average team is 5–7 hours.

SECTOR 2