Move on to the snowy saddle between the North and main peaks of Bogatyry. The route goes along the rocks on the saddle itself. There are cornices on the eastern side (be careful!). To overcome the fourth gendarme, one should drive ice screws into the snowy slope and stretch the handrail. The fifth gendarme is overcome head-on with cutting steps on the icy slope with a steepness up to 70° when approaching its constituent rocks. The rocks are of medium difficulty and are overcome with belay. Descent from the gendarme to a small dent, then to the pre-summit rocks. The rocks of medium difficulty lead to the main peak of Bogatyry. The ascent to the summit itself goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 60° (with running belay).

The descent from the main peak goes along the snowy slope with several drops. A gendarme blocking the path is overcome head-on; the rocks are of medium difficulty. Then, the path leads to the saddle between the Central and South peaks of Bogatyry. The ascent to the South peak of Bogatyry goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 45°, and the descent from it goes along the snowy slope no steeper than 40°. The descent leads to the saddle between the South peak of Bogatyry and the peak of Kolesnik, the last object of the traverse route.

The peak of Kolesnik is an ice dome, above which three groups of rocks rise. The middle group is the summit. The route to the summit presents no particular difficulties. From the saddle, the ascent to the summit begins with a 100-meter snowy slope (sometimes with aufeis). Further on:

• there are easy and medium rocks of the southwestern ridge
• further to the east, there is a second rocky ridge, which is the highest point of the summit.

The descent from the route is initially made to the saddle between the peaks of South Bogatyry and Kolesnik, then along the couloir to the right branch of the Kolesnik glacier. The steepness of the couloir is 50–55°. In the upper part, the bottom of the couloir is filled with firn for about 200 m, and the lower part is about three hundred meters of fine talus. In the lower part, the couloir becomes gentler and its steepness does not exceed 35°.

When exiting the couloir onto the glacier, there are crevasses (be careful!). When moving along the glacier, continuously stay on the right edge. Both icefalls - upper and lower - are bypassed along the talus on the right side.

The bypass of the lower icefall is particularly difficult and passes along:

• rocks
• loose talus
• lying on the ice base

The further descent to a small green clearing with a stream flowing from the Severtsov glacier is a convenient place for an overnight stay. The entire traverse takes 10–11 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is 6–8 people.
2. The initial bivouac is at the foot of the MYUD pass.
3. Departure from the initial bivouac is at 4:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main rope; b) 8 m expendable cord; c) 5–6 ice screws; d) 2 hammers; e) 4–5 carabiners