Gigan (4250 m). Ascent via the Eastern Ridge — Category 1B (fig. 5)
Gigan peak is located in the Kargalinsky spur system in a northwesterly direction from Zheshtar peak and is connected to it by a ridge. To the east, a ridge with Oktyabr peak (4140 m) extends from it. Its northern side is snow-covered, while the southern side has rocky, heavily eroded ridges descending from it, separated by couloirs filled with large, loose scree resting on a steep base.
Fig. 5. Approaches to the summit from the Prohodnoye gorge. Bypassing the Alma-Arasan resort and the forest zone, turn west and move along the moraine of the unnamed glacier, leaving the eastern ridge of Zheshtar peak to the left, and reach the glacier. Before reaching the ridge connecting Zheshtar and Gigan peaks, start ascending from the southern side via one of the couloirs that leads to the eastern ridge. Then, proceed along the rocks, which do not present technical difficulties, to reach the summit.
The summit is a narrow, eroded ridge. Descent is possible via the ascent route. It is also possible to descend northward along the ridge towards the Kargalinskoye gorge.
The ascent takes 7–8 hours.
The first ascent was made in 1951 by Almaty climbers:
- A. Lukhtanov
- A. Maryashev
Recommendations for Climbers
- The number of participants is not limited.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of the unnamed glacier.
- Departure from the bivouac at 6:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4: 2 × 30 m main rope.
