Ascent Passport

Region: China — Kunlun, Kongur Muztagh range. Section number according to the classification table 11.3.
Peak name: Muztag Ata. Route name: via the Northwest Ridge
Route classified by FASIЛ KР: 5A category of difficulty, first ascent
Route character: snow-ice
Height difference of the route: 3450 m. Route length: 14000 m. Length of section V category of difficulty ___________ m, VI category of difficulty ___________ m. Average steepness 30°
Pitons left on the route: total ___________ including piton hangers ___________. Use of pitons on the route: Stationary piton hangers ___________ including ITO ___________ Removable piton hangers ___________ including ITO ___________
Team's climbing hours: 40 hours, days: 5
Ascent participants: Nikishin S.V., Nikishi
Departure to the route July 28, 2004, summit August 1, 2004, return to base camp August 2, 2004.
Route via the Northwest ridge.
USSR route 1956. Schematic diagram of the route.

Section	Length (meters)	Steepness (degrees)	Category of difficulty
R0	2500	10–20	1
R1	1800	20–30	1
R2	1100	30	2
R3	150	40	2+
R4	800	30–55	2–3
R5	500	10	1
R6	500	35	2
R7	500	10	1
R8	200	40	2
R9	100	15	2
R10	350	30	2
R11	1000	20–30	2
R12	1500	10–20	2
R13	1200	20	2
R14	1800	10–20	2

Route Description

R0: Ascent via moraine hills.
R1: Wide rocky ridge.
R2: Snow-ice slope. The first camp was established at an altitude of 5450 m.
R3: Snow-ice slope.
R4: Icefall — 5 snow-ice walls about 10 meters high each, with wide crevasses in between, traversed via snow bridges. Further, via a narrow ice "knife" we exit into a steep 45–50° couloir, after the couloir to the left via a broken snow shelf. Through a powerful ice fault, an unreliable snow bridge, exit onto the plateau.
R5: Wide plateau, 5900 m.
R6: Snow-ice slope.
R7: Wide area 6200 m. The second camp was established here.
R8–R11: Snow-ice slopes. Passages between crevasses. 3rd camp at an altitude of 6800 m.
R12–R14: Snow-ice slopes, ridges to the summit, moving to the left of large faults. Rocky outcrop at the summit.

Descent via the ascent route.

28.07.04: Departed from base camp (4100 m), ascended to the first camp.
29.07.04: Ascended to the second camp.
30.07.04: Relocated the camp from 6200 m to 6800 m, established the 3rd camp. Weather — snow, wind.
31.07.04: Severe storm, stayed in the third camp.
August 1, 2004: at 9:00 departed from the camp, at 15:30 reached the summit. The summit push was made in stormy weather and poor visibility (strong wind, snow). For orientation, a satellite navigator was used. At 20:00 descended to 6200 m.
August 2, 2004: descended to base camp.