NORTHWESTERN PAMIR I Eastern Kovshovykh Peak (Northern peak) 5800 m via the left edge of the western wall (orientation 5A cat. difficulty, combined) (FIRST ASCENT)

• SHARONOV B.P. — 1st category
• KHRUSTALEV L.N. — 1st category

4.1.27

4.1.28

Pamir, Center.

2nd Eastern summit of Kovshovykh massif Ascent via the northwest wall followed by a traverse through the 1st Eastern summit. (First ascent) Expedition by Odessa regional council of DSO "Avangard". Report No. 332 dated 10/6-71. 5A first ascent team leader V. Lifshits 1970.

25

Peak Kovshovykh (Central), 5800 m

via the central ridge of the western wall, combined, category 5A difficulty

Description of the First Ascent

made on August 8-10, 1968 by a group of climbers participating in the high-altitude alpinist gathering of the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Zenit" Sports Society, led by Galchenko V.B. The description was compiled by:

• Galchenko V.B.
• Konev V.F.
• Silchenko S.L. with the participation of the coach-consultant, Master of Sports of the USSR, Levin M.S.

on the ascent of Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii (6439 m) via the northwest edge, accomplished from August 3 to 16, 1972, during the USSR Armed Forces Championship in mountaineering. Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii (6439 m) is located in the Central Pamir, in the southwestern part of the Fedchenko Range, adjacent to the Academy of Sciences Range near Peak Garmo. To the north and northwest, the upper reaches of the Bivachny Glacier adjoin the base of Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii, while its southern slopes feed the right tributary of the Geographical Society Glacier. The eastern and northeastern slopes contribute to the formation of the twin-headed Koma-Akademii Glacier, which flows into the Fedchenko Glacier near a high-altitude weather station. The first ascent to the South Summit of Peak Koma-Akademii was made via the northeast face in 1965 by a team from the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations of the Uzbek SSR, led by A. P'yankov. In 1971, a team from the USSR Armed Forces mountaineering training camp, led by A. Bitny, repeated the ascent, reaching the north summit via the south summit and the southeast face. During the 1972 season, the base camp for the USSR Armed Forces mountaineers was established on July 25, 85 km from the town of Vanch, near the Geographical Society Glacier, at an altitude of 2600 m. The area of the planned ascents was well-studied during the 1971 USSR Armed Forces training camp, allowing all participants to immediately begin training climbs in the high-altitude zone. From July 27 to 31, all team members:

• participated in setting up assault camps #1 and #2;
• conducted thorough reconnaissance and reviewed the planned ascent routes;
• made necessary supplies of food and equipment;
• underwent active acclimatization at altitudes of 4200–5000 m.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent Category. High-altitude and technical. 2. Ascent Region. Central and North-Western Pamir. 3. Ascent Route. Komakademii Peak, 6439 m, Western wall, Northern summit. 4. Ascent Characteristics. Height difference 1840 m, average steepness (wall) 72°, length of complex sections 1460 m. 5. Pitons driven: Rock - 159, ice - 67 (42 of which in rock), expansion - 2. 6. Number of man-hours - 71. 7. Number of nights and their characteristics - 5.

1. Climbing category: high-altitude technical
2. Climbing area, ridge: Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Ridge
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Pik Komakademii, 6439 m, via the center of the southeast face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B.
5. Route characteristics: — height difference — 1850 m, including wall section difference — 1480 m — ridge section difference — 370 m — length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1650 m — average steepness of the route — 75°, including "lap" — 65°, "bastion" + "book" — 75–80°
6. Pitons driven:

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kabardino-Balkarian ASSR

Report

on the first ascent via the center of the Southwest face to peak "KOMAKADEMIYA" 6439 m, approximately 6B category of difficulty. CENTRAL PAMIR (region of the "Geographical Society" glacier) Coach and team captain, Honored Master of Sports of the USSR — Yu. POROKHNYA Nalchik September 5–20, 1975 ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":1651,"height":2333,"format": "Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/x8S3CPs7wa70kBDRuDtaMlrbwlIMSfaz/img-0.jpeg","id":64762345})

1. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the object of the first ascent. Brief description of the route conditions in the given area (remoteness from alpinist bases and means of communication, features of relief, weather conditions)

Peak "KOMAKADEMIYA" is located in the Central Pamir, in the southwestern part of the Fedchenko glacier, adjacent to the Academy of Sciences range in the area of peak "GARMO". This region is quite remote from populated areas; the nearest settlement, Vanch, from which one can communicate with any city by post and transport (airplanes, cars), is 80 km away from the main base camp near the Geographical Society glacier. Automobiles from the "Khrustalny" mine travel to this location. The name "peak 'Komaakademii'" appeared on maps compiled by surveyor Dorofeev based on surveys in 1938. In the same year, the first acquaintance of alpinists with the peak took place. An expedition led by N.V. KRYLENKO penetrated from the upper reaches of the Tanymas river to the Fedchenko glacier and "...was struck by two peaks of one mountain, which we," he writes, "from then on called the double-peaked one. They were higher than the others."

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Category — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL

2. Ascent Area

CENTRAL PAMIR 3. Ascent Route with Indication of Peaks and Their Heights to peak "KOMAK DEMII" 6439 m via CENTRAL WEST WALL 4. Characteristics of the Ascent: height difference — 2150 m VERTICAL, 2640 m ROPE LENGTH, average steepness — 73°, length of complex section 820 m.

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR Climbing Championship 1971. Category I ascent details: 2. Region of ascent: 3. Route of ascent: high-altitude and technical. Central Pamir. eastern wall of Peak Kommunizm with further traverse of the massif. 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference 1750 m, average slope 65°–70°, length of difficult sections 1500 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock — 188; ice — 38; bolt 6. Number of climbing hours: 74.5 h.

Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak — Komakademii (South-Main, 6439 m) via the southwest wall, traverse — L. Matyushin's route, 72.
4. Complexity category — 6.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1690 m. distance to South summit — 1960 m. distance to Main summit — 2500 m. distance with 5–6 complexity category — 1000 m.