Central Asia

First ascent of the unnamed summit "5691 m" in the Pamir mountains via the East Ridge, cat. dif. 3B, expedition of the CS DSO "*Burevestnik*" in 1966.

Introduction In the center of the Pamir Mountains, in an area that remained a "blank spot" for a long time, between two seven-thousander peaks — Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) and Peak Evgeniya Korzhenevskoi (7105 m) — stands a nameless peak marked on the map as "5691". The summit ridge stretches from east to west and divides the Moskvina Glacier into two branches; to the north and south, the ridge drops off with ice falls and sheer walls. The highest point of the peak is located in the eastern part of the ridge. This area was not mapped until the early 1930s, and even after that, it was rarely visited — the approaches to the upper reaches of the Moskvina Glacier were too difficult. N.V. Krylenko with two companions was the first to circumnavigate the peak in 1933. His note lay in a large cairn at the lower point of the East Ridge for 33 years! Later, despite the inaccessibility, the area around Peak E. Korzhenevskoi was visited several times by various groups and even entire expeditions, but no attempt was made to climb the nameless peak "5691", which is an excellent panoramic point in the area. In July-August 1966, an expedition from the Central Sports and Tourism Council of the "Burevestnik" sports organization worked in the upper reaches of the Moskvina Glacier, with the goal of making several ascents of Peak E. Korzhenevskoi via new routes. During the high-altitude acclimatization, one of the expedition groups made the first ascent of the nameless peak "5691" on August 1, 1966, dedicating the climb to the 20th anniversary of the Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology. Description of the Route via the East Ridge

First ascent of Peak Blukher via the South Ridge (orientation 5B cat. dif.) in the Pamir Mountains in 1981.

№56. Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship High-altitude Technical Class We dedicate the ascent to our friends Kovtun V.G. and Bodnik V.N. Akademiya Nauk Ridge Peak Blyukhera via the South Ridge — first ascent (orient. 5B cat. diff.) — Team of the Ukrainian Republican Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society | № | Surname | Initials | Rank | Role | | :-: | :------: | :-------: | :----: | :------------: | | 1 | Tsakanyan | O.S. | CMS | team leader | | 2 | Bychek | A.M. | MS | participant |

Ascent of Peak Bespokoynykh (5600 m) via the south-east ridge, 4A grade, a combined route, made by a group of mountaineers in 1968.

North-West Pamir Upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier Peak: Bespokojnykh (5600 m) via its eastern ridge, 4A category of difficulty, combined Description FIRST ASCENT BY THE ALPINIAD GROUP OF THE REGIONAL COUNCIL OF THE “ZENIT” VOLUNTARY SPORTS SOCIETY Description compiled by Buchikov — V. Butkov Chelyabinsk Alpine Federation, 1940 Introduction Peak Bespokojnykh (5600 m) is located in the southern part of the Akademiya Nauk SSSR ridge. The summit is clearly visible from the “4300” base camp in the area of the Abdukagor-II pass (see photos 1 and 2).

**First ascent** of the **North-West wall** of **Peak Bastille** in **Pamir Mountains** in 1976, **Category 6B** route.

Passport of the ascent made in the 1976 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship Ascent class — technically challenging. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Medvezhiy Glacier. Ascent route — Bastilia Peak (5432 m) via the northwest wall. Ascent characteristics: Elevation gain: 1900 m Average slope: 73° Length of challenging sections: 1400 m (elevation gain 1300 m, slope 83°) Number of pitons: rock — 316, ice — 5 Number of travel hours: 82 h Number of nights: six (excluding processing day), including:

The first ascent of Bastille Peak (5400 m) by the western counterfort and the edge of the northern wall (cat. 5B diff.) in 1975.

Moscow City Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society Peak Bastilia via the western counterfort and the edge of the northern wall (first ascent) 5B category of difficulty Team captain: Master of Sports Pissulov D.B. Team coaches: Master of Sports of International Class Kovtunenko V.D. Master of Sports Martynovsky A.A. 1975 Area diagram

Ascent to Peak Ahmadi Donish via the Southwest Wall, route description, and technical characteristics of the ascent.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical. II. Ascent area — Central Pamir. III. Southwest wall of Peak Akhmad-Donish (6666 m). IV. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 2300 m; average steepness — 76°; complex section length — 870 m. V. Number of pitons: rock — 364, ice — 5, bolted — 0. VI. Total travel time — 62.5 hours.

Ascent of the Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee team to Peak Ahmadi Donish via the South Face in 1987, category 6B, second ascent.

I. Altitude class Central Pamir, Bivachny Glacier Peak Akhmad-Donish via South Face. 6B, second ascent Elevation gain: 2300 m, length 2585 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff.: 2142 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 73°30′, including 6 cat. diff.: 80° (80 m), 85° (65 m), 90° (175 m), 95° (56 m). Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :------- | :--------- | :------- | :------ | | 335 | 0 | 137 | 54 | | 18 | 0 | 15 | 0 |

The ascent of the Lenin Sports Committee team to peak Ahmad Donish via the southern wall in 1975 over 11 days, including route preparation and enforced overnight stays due to bad weather.

Climbing Passport Completed in the 1975 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship Climbing class: High-altitude technical. Climbing area: Central Pamir, Bivachny Glacier. Climbing route: Peak Akhmad Donish (6665 m) via the South face. Climbing characteristics: height difference 2300 m, average steepness 73°, length of complex sections 1610 m (steepness 81°). Number of pitons used: rock - 357, ice - 13, bolted - 2. Total climbing hours - 90.5 hours. Number of bivouacs - 10 (excluding preparation day), including: lying down - 4 (all in one location - weather waiting), sitting - 6. Additionally, two lying down bivouacs on the summit - weather waiting. Team name: Leningrad City Sports Committee Team. Team members: Solonnikov Viktor Aleksandrovich - Master of Sports, captain, coach Grachev Andrei Borisovich - Master of Sports, participant Borzov Yuri Vyacheslavovich - Master of Sports, participant Vikulin Stanislav Aleksandrovich - Master of Sports, participant Smirnov Alexey Aleksandrovich - Candidate for Master of Sports, participant

Report on the ascent made by the team from the Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee via a category 6 difficulty route to Peak Ahmad Donish via the North face in 1987.

1987 RSFSR Alpine Championship High-altitude Climbing Category Ir. 576 p. 9 dated 6.10.87 2nd ascent of V. Smirnov route, 6th category of difficulty PEAK AKHMAI DONISH 6666 m The photo contains a report from Smirnov's institute, but it was not provided to the team. Recorded with counter-V. Approved for the ascent of Peak Akhmad Donish via the South Face (№ 4.1.5 according to KTMGV) by the team from the Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee. Second ascent. Team Leader

First ascent of Peak Ahmadi Donish via the west face climbed by a USSR Armed Forces team in 1975.

Ascent Passport Appendix No. 1 I. High-altitude and technical category Ascent area — Central Pamir Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights — Southwest wall of Peak "Ahmad Donish" (6666 m) Ascent characteristics: height difference — 2300 m average steepness — 75° length of complex sections — 1340 m Pitons driven: