Central Asia

### Ascent of Peak Kommunisticheskoi Akademii via the Northwest Edge in 1972 as part of the USSR Armed Forces Alpine Championship.

on the ascent of Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii (6439 m) via the northwest edge, accomplished from August 3 to 16, 1972, during the USSR Armed Forces Championship in mountaineering. Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii (6439 m) is located in the Central Pamir, in the southwestern part of the Fedchenko Range, adjacent to the Academy of Sciences Range near Peak Garmo. To the north and northwest, the upper reaches of the Bivachny Glacier adjoin the base of Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii, while its southern slopes feed the right tributary of the Geographical Society Glacier. The eastern and northeastern slopes contribute to the formation of the twin-headed Koma-Akademii Glacier, which flows into the Fedchenko Glacier near a high-altitude weather station. The first ascent to the South Summit of Peak Koma-Akademii was made via the northeast face in 1965 by a team from the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations of the Uzbek SSR, led by A. P'yankov. In 1971, a team from the USSR Armed Forces mountaineering training camp, led by A. Bitny, repeated the ascent, reaching the north summit via the south summit and the southeast face. During the 1972 season, the base camp for the USSR Armed Forces mountaineers was established on July 25, 85 km from the town of Vanch, near the Geographical Society Glacier, at an altitude of 2600 m. The area of the planned ascents was well-studied during the 1971 USSR Armed Forces training camp, allowing all participants to immediately begin training climbs in the high-altitude zone. From July 27 to 31, all team members: participated in setting up assault camps #1 and #2; conducted thorough reconnaissance and reviewed the planned ascent routes; made necessary supplies of food and equipment; underwent active acclimatization at altitudes of 4200–5000 m.

The first ascent description of Peak Kovshovyi-Tsentralnaya (5800 m) via the central rib of the western wall, made in 1968 by a group of Chelyabinsk climbers.

25 Peak Kovshovykh (Central), 5800 m via the central ridge of the western wall, combined, category 5A difficulty Description of the First Ascent made on August 8-10, 1968 by a group of climbers participating in the high-altitude alpinist gathering of the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Zenit" Sports Society, led by Galchenko V.B. The description was compiled by: Galchenko V.B. Konev V.F. Silchenko S.L. with the participation of the coach-consultant, Master of Sports of the USSR, Levin M.S.

### Ascent of the 2nd Eastern peak of the Kovshovy massif via the northwestern wall with traverse of the 1st Eastern peak in 1970.

4.1.27 4.1.28 Pamir, Center. 2nd Eastern summit of Kovshovykh massif Ascent via the northwest wall followed by a traverse through the 1st Eastern summit. (First ascent) Expedition by Odessa regional council of DSO "Avangard". Report No. 332 dated 10/6-71. 5A first ascent team leader V. Lifshits 1970.

Description of the first ascent of the Northern peak Kovshovy (5800 m) via the left edge of the western wall in the Northwestern Pamir, difficulty category 5A.

NORTHWESTERN PAMIR I Eastern Kovshovykh Peak (Northern peak) 5800 m via the left edge of the western wall (orientation 5A cat. difficulty, combined) (FIRST ASCENT) SHARONOV B.P. — 1st category KHRUSTALEV L.N. — 1st category

Ascent to Peak Kalinina via the northwest wall, category 6B difficulty route. Description of the route and its passage by a group from Dnipropetrovsk.

NW Wall of Peak Kalinina 6565 m Geographic Description and Sporting Characteristics of Peak Kalinina Description of Climbing Conditions Peak Kalinina (6565 m) is located in the Academy of Sciences Range, Central Pamir. Along with Peaks Chetyrekh and Akhmadi-Donish, Peak Kalinina encloses the AYu-Dzhilga valley with a huge rocky-ice cirque. To the southeast, the massif of Peak Kalinina is quite dissected and is connected by gentle ridges to Peak Zhukova and an unnamed peak 6431 m. To the northwest, into the AYu-Dzhilga valley, Peak Kalinina drops with a two-kilometer rocky-ice wall. The first ascent to Peak Kalinina was made in 1972 by a group led by K. Kuzmin from the south, from the Odinnadtsati glacier. In 1974, a group led by V. Bozhukov, while traversing Peaks Kalinina and Kommunizma, ascended Peak Kalinina via the southeastern ridge, which runs from Peak Zhukova. Unlike other surrounding mountain regions, the AYu-Dzhilga valley is a relatively infrequently visited area of the Central Pamir. The beginning of mountaineering exploration in the area was made in 1966 by an expedition from Leningrad's "Spartak" led by Budanov. The Leningraders made ascents to Peak Akhmadi-Donish, Peak Chetyrekh, and Peak Yakira from the AYu-Dzhilga valley. Until the 1975 season, this was the only expedition to the valley.

Report on the first ascent of Pik Kalinina (6565 m) by a group of climbers, via a Category 5A route along the Peter I Ridge.

24 REPORT on the ascent to Peak Kalinina (6565 m) (first ascent) by the special group "Nurek" of CS SDSO "Burevestnik" | leader: | Kuzmin K.K. | — 3rd sports category USSR | | :------: | :----------: | :-------------------------: | | members: | Bozhukov V.M. | — Master of Sports USSR | | | Vanin V.V. | — Master of Sports USSR |

Ascent of Peak Izvestiia via the South-East Wall, made by a team of 9 mountaineers led by G.A. Chunovkin as part of the 1977 USSR Championship.

ASCENT PERFORMED IN THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM ON AUGUST 15, 1977 Ascent Class — High-altitude Ascent Area — Central Pamir Ascent Route — Peak Izvestiy via the southeast wall Ascent Characteristics Altitude difference — 2050 m Route length — 2680 m Average steepness — 72° (wall) Length of complex sections — 1300 m (altitude difference — 1150 m; average steepness — 85°) Pitons driven:

Report on the ascent of Peak Izvestia (6840 m) in 1964 by a team of Uzbek climbers via Peaks Ordzhonikidze, Pioneer Pravda, and the unnamed peak 6700 m.

4.1.19 Report OF THE TEAM OF THE UNION OF SPORTS SOCIETIES AND ORGANIZATIONS OF UZBEKISTAN ON THE ASCENT TO PIK IZVESTIYA 6840 m, MADE IN THE SUMMER SPORTS SEASON OF 1964. Tashkent – 1964 Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of the Pik Izvestiya Area Pik Izvestiya (6840 m) is located in the heart of the Pamir Mountains, near the highest peak in the USSR — Pik Kommunizma — in the Petra I ridge. To the south of the peak lies a spur of the Petra I ridge, approximately 5 km long, featuring three six-thousander peaks: Ordzhonikidze 6280 m

First ascent of the northern counterfort of Peak Izvestiy from the Walter Glacier, category 5B, climbed by the MAD team "Pamir-77" in 1977.

Ascent to Pik Izvestii from Walter Glacier via the north spur The first ascent was made by the "Pamir-77" team — led by Cherny N.D. Pik Izvestii is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, in the Academy of Sciences Range, between Pik 6700 and Voroshilov Peak. The height of Pik Izvestii is 6840 m. To the north lies the Walter Glacier, and to the south lies the Stalin Glacier. Until now, no routes had been made from Walter Glacier directly to the summit of Pik Izvestii. The route taken represents a snow-ice spur, starting with a straightforward ridge section from Walter Glacier. The spur leads to the firn fields adjacent to the summit of Pik Izvestii. The ascent was made from a base camp by a lake at the confluence of the Moskvina and Walter Glaciers by a team of trainers from "Pamir-77" in the following composition: Cherny N.D., CMS — leader Borodkin Yu.V., MS Bobrov V.I., CMS Smirnov R.N., MS The team had good prior acclimatization: ascent to Pik Petrovskogo, ascent up the same spur of Pik Izvestii to 6100 m (from where the team was withdrawn for rescue work) and participation in rescue work on Pik E. Korzhenevskoi with ascent to 5600 m. Day 1 From the base camp by the lake at the confluence of the Moskvina and Walter Glaciers, the team departed on August 3, 1977, at 6:00. Moving along the right (orographic) moraine of Walter Glacier, the team reached the upper cirque of this glacier in 3 hours, crossed the glacier, and approached the base of the spur.

Description of the first ascent of Peak 5731 via the Bivachny Glacier by the Pamir Expedition of the Ukrainian Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society in 1967, category 4B.

Description First ascent of Peak 5731 from the Bivachny Glacier by participants of the Pamir expedition of the Ukrainian Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society August 4–7, 1967 Leader — V. Rudenya, coach — I. Polevoy. Participants: S. Slenzak V. Golub I. Batmanova V. Yefimov D. Kamayev A. Karatsuba