The climbing object announced by the group of instructors of the international mountaineering camp "Pamir-76" is well-known among Soviet mountaineers. It is the highest point in the USSR - Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) with an ascent to the Big Pamir Firn Plateau via Borodkin's route. For this reason, this report omits a geographical overview of the area, the history of its development, and a description of the approaches to the route. A few words should be said about the meteorological conditions in the area in July-August 1976.

• From July 5 to 20, the weather was stable: clear, with little wind even at heights up to 7000 m.
• After July 20, the weather became unstable. For example, on July 21, during the descent from Peak E. Korzhenevskaya, the group had to walk for a whole day with visibility not exceeding 500 m.
• From July 23 to 27, low cloud cover and continuous light rain were observed in the area. At an altitude of 7000 m, there was a very strong wind, and snow caught the group of the Tajik Medical-Biological Expedition, which, after waiting out the bad weather in a storm camp, was forced to abandon the ascent.
• However, during the ascent on August 7-9, the weather was good, but it was very cold: on the night of August 6-7, the minimum temperature at an altitude of 6000 m was –28 °C.

Acclimatization and training ascent

The group of climbers arrived at the Buluiev clearing as part of the collective of instructors of the international mountaineering camp "Pamir-76" on August 8, having previously made an acclimatization trip to an altitude of 4500 m in the Achik-Tash clearing area. On July 1, all group members left the base camp for an acclimatization hike. The main objectives of the exit were:

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak, 30th by height, climbing route — Peak Communism, 7495 m above sea level, via the counterfort from Walter Glacier, route by N. Chyorny.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3495 m, length of category difficulty sections: 5 — 2500 m, category difficulty 6 — 300 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Pitons hammered for safety: rock — 10, ice — 30, bolt — C.
7. Number of travel hours — 41.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 4 nights on snow in a tent.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualifications:
   1. Studenin B. A., Master of Sports of International Class, team leader.

Ascent

to Peak Kommunizma from Walter Glacier via the spur with an exit to the ridge between Peaks Izvestiy and 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. Protocol No. 422 dated 09.11.1976. Classify the route: traverse of Peak 6700 m — Peak Kommunizma with ascent via the northwest spur and Voykov Ridge, ice and snow. Credit the group with the first ascent.

First Ascent

by the MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" group, led by N. Cherny. Peak Kommunizma is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, at the junction of the Peter I and Academy of Sciences ranges. Its northwest slopes descend onto the Pamir Firn Plateau. The plateau drops steeply to the north onto the Walter and Traube glaciers. The northern slopes of Peaks 50th Anniversary of VLKSM (6700 m) and Izvestiy descend onto the first glacier. Two routes to Peak Kommunizma have been established from Walter Glacier: the Borodkin route, which exits onto the plateau, and the Bezzubkin route, which exits onto Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. The MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" group made an ascent of Peak Kommunizma via a new route from Walter Glacier. The route follows a snow and ice spur that leads to the ridge between Peak Izvestiy and Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. From there, the group followed a previously established path via Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM and then along the northeast ridge of Peak Kommunizma to its summit. The descent followed the ascent route down to the saddle between Peak Kommunizma and Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM, then the group descended onto the firn plateau and along the "Burevestnik" ridge to Fortambek Glacier. The group departed from the base camp with the following members:

Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Northwest Pamir, Walter Glacier
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: West wall of Peak Klara Zetkin, 6680 m.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 2280 m, average steepness 73°, length of complex section 834 m
5. Number of pitons: rock 253 ice 13, expansion bolts 2
6. Number of travel hours: 83 h
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: seven (five semi-reclining, two reclining).

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude
2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir, l. Walter, Academy of Sciences ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — p. K. Zetkin, 6680 m, via the W wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6 (second ascent)
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2150 m. length of sections with 5–6 diff. — 1200 m. average steepness — 70° (the wall itself is 75°)
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — 202 (36 on descent and 20 for bivouac) for creating ITO — 6 rock — 202

PASSPORT

1. Altitude class.
2. Pamir, Walter Glacier.
3. Peak K. Tsetkin via West face — Peak Kommunizma.
4. Category 6B difficulty.
5. Elevation difference to Peak Kommunizma — 2895 m, to Peak K. Tsetkin — 2080 m. Distance to Peak Kommunizma — 9140 m, to Peak K. Tsetkin — 2642 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 3425 m, of which 6B category — 270 m. Average steepness of the third wall of Peak K. Tsetkin — 55°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | Ice screws | | :--- | :--- | :---- | :-------- |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range (4.1)
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak K. Zetkin, 6680 m, West face.
4. Difficulty category — 6B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2280 m, average steepness — 73°, length of complex sections — 834 m.
6. Pitons hammered for insurance: rock — 249, ice — 12.
7. Number of travel hours — 77.
8. Number of nights — 13.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants:

Team Composition

1. Golubkov B.S. — team leader: 1st sports category (Moscow "Trud")
2. Vlasov V. 1st sports category (Moscow "Trud")
3. Milovanovich V.D. 1st sports category (Leningrad "Trud")
4. Polyakov D.A. 1st sports category (Leningrad "Trud")

Ascent Description

In July-August 1961, a mountaineering expedition organized by the Central Council of the "Trud" Sports Society was in the Pamir region, near Peak Kommunizma.

PEAK CHETYREKH 6299

I. Brief Geographical Description of the Area and Climbing Object

The object of our ascent — Peak Chetyrekh (6299 m) — is located in the northwestern Pamir, in the western branch of the Akademiya Nauk Range. The node dividing the range into western and eastern branches is the massif of Peak Ahmadi Donisha (6666 m), which is connected by saddles to both the eastern branch, ending with the peaks Muzzhilga, Sandal, and Shilbe (Mazarskie Alpy), and to its western branch, which begins with Peak Chetyrekh and ends with the grandiose peak of Peak E. Korzhenevskoi. The southern slopes of Peak Chetyrekh drop down to the Moskvina Glacier, in the Fortambek valley, while the northern slopes descend into the Aiu-dzhilga valley, from where the ascent was made. The summit of Peak Chetyrekh had already been reached from the south via the simplest route, but the path from the north, from Aiu-dzhilga, remained untrodden. The reconnaissance showed that the virtually only path to the summit from the Aiu-dzhilga valley is an ascent to the saddle between Peak Ahmadi Donisha and Peak Chetyrekh, followed by an ascent along the ridge to the summit.

II. Brief Description of Climbing Conditions in the Area

a) Terrain Features

Report

On the first ascent to the summit 6231 m via the south-west edge from the Ayudzhilga valley on the Central Pamir, made by alpinists from Leningrad's “SPARTAK” on July 27–30, 1966. The summit was named: “Peak YAKIR”

Geography of the area and characteristics of the peaks