Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the Left Part of the North Face

Climbing Passport

1. Pamir. Akademiya Nauk Range. The highest point of the former USSR. Peak Kommunizma (Ismoili Somoni) 7495 m. Claimed category: 6A (winter). First ascent. In terms of complexity and conditions, a normal 6B. Route type: ice. Elevation gain: 2500 m. Route length: approximately 5500 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 1400 m, II — 2700 m, III — 230 m, IV — 800 m, V — 200 m, VI — 165 m.
3. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 75°.
4. Number of pitons left on the route: total — 30.
5. Total number of ice screws used on the route: 240.
6. Total number of artificial anchors (AAs) used: 50.
7. Team's total climbing hours after processing the route: 4 hours.
8. Team:

Report on the Ascent of

Peak Korzhenevskaya via the Left Bastion of the Southwest Ridge, Category 5B, by the "Black Ice" Team from July 23 to July 28, 2022

I. Route Passport

1. Category of ascent
2. Area of ascent, ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Proposed category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference, average steepness, length
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock ice
7. Number of walking hours
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics

4.2.16

Report

Ravok East. Group of climbers SK A-18 SibVO on the first ascent to the peak 5223 m via the eastern ridge, route approximately category 3B.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route.

Map of the ascent area.

Ascent and descent route.

Route description.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region — Vanachsky Ridge.
3. Summit — Peak 5223 m. 2
4. Ascent route — via the eastern ridge.
5. Proposed difficulty category — 3B cat. diff.
6. Route characteristics: — elevation gain — 1100 m; — length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 60 m; — average steepness — 40°
7. Pitons hammered in: for belaying for creating R.P.E. — rock — ice — bolted 12 3 none none none

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Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: TECHNICAL CLASS.
2. Ascent area: VANCH RANGE.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: RAVAK 5232 m EASTERN RIDGE of RAVAK GLACIER.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 1100 m
   • Average steepness: 44°
   • Length I–90 m: II–990 m: III–185 m: IV–275 m: V–15 m
6. Pitons driven:

I. Ascent Passport

1. Category: technically challenging ascents.
2. Area: Central Pamir, upper reaches of the Vanch River.
3. Route: first ascent to Peak 5232 m (Ravak) via the center of the north face.
4. Characteristics of the ascent:
   • height difference — 1200 m;
   • average steepness — 60°;
   • length of complex sections (5 and 6 cat. diff.) — 875 m;
5. Pitons driven:
   • rock — 126;

Ascent Log

1. CATEGORY: technically challenging ascents.
2. REGION: Central Pamir, upper reaches of the Vanch River.
3. ROUTE: first ascent of Maly Ravak peak via the northern counterfort, ridge.
4. Ascent description: height difference: 4600–3800 = 800 m; average steepness 45°–60°; length of difficult sections — 400 m, including very difficult — 55 m.
5. Pitons hammered: 24 (rock).
6. Number of travel hours: 14.
7. Team name: team of LGS DSO “Spartak”.
8. Team composition:
   1. Baybara Viktor Savelyevich — team leader, 1st sports category.

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