Ascent to Peak Sandal (6150 m)

via the northern edge from the Maly Tanymas valley (Central Pamir, Mazarskiye Alps) Expedition of the Odessa Regional Council of the "Avangard" Sports Society Climb leader: Stecenko N.A.

Brief geographical, geological and climatic characteristics of the Mazarskiye Alps region

Communication routes

The Mazarskiye Alps are a group of peaks at the northern end of the Academy of Sciences Range in the Central Pamir. To the east and north, the Mazarskiye Alps are bounded by the valleys of the Sel-Dara and Muk-Su rivers, respectively, and to the south by the glacier and the river of the same name, Maly Tanymas, which flows into the Sel-Dara river, and the tongue of the Fedchenko Glacier. To the west, the Mazarskiye Alps are connected through a significant depression in the ridge with the peaks of the Academy of Sciences Range, the upper reaches of the Maly Tanymas and Ayu-Dzhilga glaciers.

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Description

Ascent route to Sandal Peak (6150 m) via the NE ridge from Maly Tanymas Glacier (first ascent) Group composition:

1. Volynets G.I. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports.
2. Mikhailov A.A. — participant, 1st category.
3. Efimov S.D. — participant, 1st category.
4. Yakovlev G.S. — participant, 1st category.

Route timeline

The route was completed from August 3 to 8, 1967, in 45 hours of climbing time by a sports group from the Sverdlovsk Pamir Expedition, starting from the base camp at 3450 m on Maly Tanymas Glacier.

Upper Reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier

"Description of the First Ascent to Peak Sент-Экзюпери (6063 m), Category 4B difficulty via the North Ridge". Protocol No. 427 dated January 18, 1977. Classify as Category 4A difficulty. First ascent credited to the group. The first ascent was made by a group of climbers from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on August 27, 1976.

Group Composition

Leader — K.N. Veselov — Candidate Master of Sports Members:

• A.V. Abramov — 1st sports category

Ascent Log

1. Type of ascent: High-altitude technical climb.
2. Region of ascent: Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range, Peak Sentyabrsky (Szent-Ekzyuperi) northwest of the Abdukagor-2 pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Sentyabrsky (Szent-Ekzyuperi), 6063 m, combined route via the left edge of the western wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1160 m, average steepness up to the summit ridge 54°. Length of sections with 6th category complexity — 50 m, 5th category complexity — 500 m, 4th category complexity — 800 m, 3rd category complexity — 300 m.
6. Number of pitons hammered:

For belaying and creating artificial holds

rock — 30 ice — 87

Peak Sodruzhestvo

To the Classification Commission of the Presidium of the USSR Alpine Federation

Description of the ascent route to the summit 5640 m

The 5640 m summit is located in the central part of the Pamir in the Academy of Sciences Range between Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) and Peak Garmo (6615 m). The 5640 m summit stands out distinctly on the ridge, having a beautiful outline. A small glacier flows down from the slopes of the 5640 m summit, being a right tributary (orographically) of the Vavilov Glacier. The first ascent to the 5640 m summit was made by participants of the British-Soviet expedition consisting of: – 1. Hunt J. — group leader – 2. Law J. — member – 3. Jones R. — member

Climbing category — B/technical. Climbing region — Pamir. Darvaz Range. Peak, its height, route — p. 5970 (40 let Oktyabrya), height 5970 via N.E. spur. First ascent. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A. Route characteristics: height difference — 1250 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 240 m. Average steepness — 50°. Pitons hammered: rock ( закладки ) — 50, ice — 44. Number of travel hours — 18. Number of nights and their characteristics — one, cut out in ice. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants and their qualification:

1. Efimov S. — MS
2. Lavrukhin V. — MS Team coach: — Efimov S. Date of departure and return — July 14–15, 1978. Dushanbe — 1978

Scheme of l. Bivachny area

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 5910 m via the southern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: total altitude difference — 810 m. wall altitude difference — 610 m. length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 260 m.

Report

On the first ascent to Pik Tельмана (5970) via the Southwest ridge from the Bivachny glacier by the team of Ukr совет ДСО «СПАРТАК» consisting of:

• Komarov N.P. (team leader)
• Denisenko P.N.
• Ladnushkin V.M.
• Starodub O.V.
• Sulimovsky N.V. [^0]

Ascent Passport

I ascent class — first ascent. 2 Ascent area — Bivachny glacier. 3 Peak — p. Tel'mana (40 let Oktyabrya). Height — 5970 m. Ascent route — southwest ridge with a saddle between p. 5970 and 5700 m. 4 Assumed difficulty category — 3B. 5 Route description:

• Elevation gain — 800 m
• Average slope — 40–50°. Driven pitons: rock protection — 10 pcs. Duration: 7 hours. Number of nights and their characteristics: one overnight under the route on the glacier moraine. Surname and initials of the leader, participants and their qualification:

Report

On the first ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) from the north from the Walter Glacier by the Central Council team of the "Burevestnik" DSDO in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents.

1. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

The highest peak in the Soviet Union — Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) — rises at the junction of the Academy of Sciences and Peter I ridges (photo №4). The main orographic questions of the Peak Kommunizma mountain node were finally resolved in 1933 by the expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences. In the same year, the first ascent to the summit was made from the east. The powerful glaciation of Peak Kommunizma belongs to the basins of the Bivachny, Garmo, and Fortambek glaciers. To the south, the summit drops with a three-kilometer sheer wall onto the Garmo Glacier.