Central Asia
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateFirst ascent of an unnamed peak (5231 m) via Western Ridge in the Vanch Range, Pamir Mountains; a 5A (Russian grading system) route.
Vanch Range
UNNAMED PEAK 5231 m (previously 5211)! (FIRST ASCENT) VIA WEST RIDGE ROUTE APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 5A DIFFICULTY
Team Composition
| Name | Sport Rank | Role |
|---|---|---|
| Vavilov A.I. | 1st sport rank | — team leader |
| Zhelandovskiy L.E. | 1st sport rank | — participant |
| Mironychev M.S. | 1st sport rank | — " — |
| Shabrukov V.I. | 1st sport rank | — " — |
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateClimbing certificate for an unnamed peak (5231 m) in the Central Pamir via the Western Ridge, difficulty category 5-4, climbed by a team from the Gorky Regional Council of the "Zenit" Voluntary Sports Society in 1976.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class — technically challenging First ascent, approximately 5-4 difficulty category. 2. Ascent region — Central Pamir, Northern spur of the Vanchsky Ridge. 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their elevations: Unnamed peak — 5231 m (conditionally named p. Khrustalny) via the western ridge. 4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1731 m, average steepness — 50°, length of complex sections:
- ridge before the gendarme wall — 300 m,
- wall of the trapezoidal gendarme — 200 m,
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateAscent of the north wall of Peak Khrustalny (5231) in the Pamir Mountains by a team of climbers from the "Donbass" club in 1976, first ascent of a category 5B route.
4.2.26
4.2. Pamir, Vanch Range, Peak Khrustalny, 5231 m, North Face
Alpinism Club "Donbass"
| Designation | Rank | Club | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. | BONDARETS Stanislav Afanasievich | Candidate for Master of Sports | Burevestnik |
| 2. | FELD'MAN Gennadiy L'vovich | 1st sports rank | Burevestnik |
| 3. | MIROSHNICHENKO Konstantin Vasil'evich | 1st sports rank | Avangard |
| 4. | MARTYNENKO Sergey Ivanovich | 1st sports rank | Avangard |
| 5. | MESHCHERYAKOV Aleksandr Sergeevich | 1st sports rank | Avangard |
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateAscent of the Climbing club "Donbass" to Peak Khrustalny (5281 m) via the north wall in the Central Pamir.
I. Category of ascent — technical 2. Region of ascent — Central Pamir 3. Route of ascent — Peak Khrustalny (name), 5281 m, north face. 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference — 1780 m, average steepness — 68°, length of difficult section — 430 m 5. Pitons hammered in: rock — 272, ice — 40, bolt — 0 6. Number of climbing hours — 42.5 hours 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — 3 8. Team name — Alpine Club "Donbass" 9. Surname, name, patronymic of team leader, participants, and their qualification:
Route Description: С кф.
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Cherepovets peak (Vanch ridge) via the northern counterfort, difficulty category 5B, climbed by a group of mountaineers in 1979.
- Climbing class: technical
- Climbing area: Vanch Ridge
- Peak, elevation, route: Cherepovets, 5200 m, via north counterfort
- Proposed difficulty category: 4B
- Route characteristics: elevation gain: 1200 m average steepness: 49° length of sections with I difficulty: 300 m length of sections with II difficulty: 280 m length of sections with III difficulty: 660 m
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateAscent certificate for Shaugada peak (5137 m) via the Northern ridge (4B category of difficulty) in the Pamir Mountains, route description, technical characteristics, and participants of the 1979 ascent.
Ascent Certificate
- Ascent Class: Technical
- Ascent Area: Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Shaugada 5137 m, via the North Ridge
- Proposed Difficulty Category: 4B cat. diff.
- Route Characteristics: height difference 840 m, average slope 45°. Length of sections: R1–480 m; R2–200 m; R3–160 m; R4–120 m; R5–220 m.
- Pitons hammered: — for belay: rock 22, ice 20, bolted —.
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateFirst ascent of Peak 5137m (Shaugada) via the North-East Face, grade 5A, height difference 1100 m.
Ascent Passport
I. Category: technically challenging ascents 2. Region: Central Pamir, upper reaches of the Vanch River. 3. Route: first ascent to Peak 5137 m (Shaugada) via the northeast wall. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1100 m, average steepness: +50°, length of complex sections (5 and 6 difficulty category) – 335 m. 5. Pitons driven: rock — 40, ice — 22 (excluding descent) 6. Number of climbing hours: 18.5 (excluding descent) 7. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: one sitting bivouac on the wall on an artificial platform 8. Team name: team of the Leningrad City Council of the Spartacus Sports Society 9. Team composition:
Route Description: ЮЗ склону
SSummitMateThe route to the summit via the northwest wall, a description of the ascent and key moments of the climb.
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateClimbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a detailed description of the route, key points, and photos of the challenging journey to the world's highest peak.
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateClimbing Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a description of the challenging route and key aspects of technical preparation.
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