ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE REPUBLIC OF BURYATIA

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT ARSHAN VIA THE RIGHT BUTTRESS OF THE SOUTHERN RIDGE APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 3A DIFFICULTY June 9, 2018

I. Climbing Passport

X KIV /8

Irkutsk Regional Alpine Federation

Traverse of the peaks Druzhba — Arshan (Eastern Sayan)

Brief geographical description of the region

The peaks Druzhba and Arshan are located in the Tunkin Goltsy ridge, in the Eastern Sayan, in a lateral spur. The western slopes of the spur drop steeply into the gorge of the Kyngarga river. Tunkin Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan, stretching latitudinally for 200 km. The highest point of the ridge reaches 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Khairym river gorge. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms with deep gorges and wide glacial cirques. For over 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, the ridge has many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The forest boundary:

38 Argunьба

Report on the First Ascent

Peak Arshan (2546 m) via the East Counterfort, route 4A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое (Rainy) Gorge, 6.1.2. Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Shcherban A.N.
• Resnyansky I.O.
• Generalchenko D.S. Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое (Rainy) Gorge, 6.1.2.
2. Peak Arshan (2546 m), East counterfort.

Peak Baruun From the North Suvorkina L.D. East Sayan, 6.1

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Region: East Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai gorge.
3. Summit: 2874 m. Peak Baruun from the North.
4. Proposed category: 1B category.
5. Route type: rock.

Ascent Certificate

Region — Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai valley. Peak — Barun 2874. GPS coordinates: 51°56′7.07″ N, 102°10′8.32″ E. Route — via the western ridge, proposed category 2A. Route type — rocky.

Route Characteristics

Elevation gain — 500 m, length — about 900 m. Used for belay: rock pitons — 0, chocks — 0. Climbing hours: 6, days — 1.

Pik Baruun from the south Suvorkina L.D. Sayan Vostochny, 6B

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Area: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai gorge
3. Peak: 2874 m Pik Baruun from the south
4. Proposed: 2A cat. diff.
5. Route type: combined
6. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 800 m. Route length: 1412 m. Length of section with 3rd cat. diff.: 22 m. Length of section with 2nd cat. diff.: 200 m. Length of section with 1st cat. diff.: 1190 m. Steepness of the main part of the route 40°
7. Used on the route:

1. Class of ascent: technically challenging.
2. Area of ascent: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Alps, Barun-Khandagai gorge.
3. Peak: Barun via the eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 4A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 55°, length of sections: 0–1 — 500 m, 1–2 — 90 m, 2–3 — 120 m, 3–4 — 40 m, 4–5 — 30 m, 5–6 — 200 m, 6–7 — 200 m, 7–8 — 1500 m. Total: — 2700 m.
6. Number of pitons hammered for belay: rock — 23, for progression: "slings/cams" — 11.

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Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Recreation and Alpinism" Gory Baikala

Report on the First Ascent

Baruun Vostochny, 2674 m, via the Central Bastion

Irkutsk 2017

Passport

1. Category: rock climbing
2. Region: Eastern Sayan, Baruun-Khandagai gorge
3. Peak: Baruun Vostochny, 2674 m, via the central bastion
4. Proposed category: 4B
5. Height difference: 500 m, route length: 610 m