Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Recreation and Alpinism" Gory Baikala

Report on the First Ascent

Baruun Vostochny, 2674 m, via the Central Bastion

Irkutsk 2017

Passport

Category: rock climbing
Region: Eastern Sayan, Baruun-Khandagai gorge
Peak: Baruun Vostochny, 2674 m, via the central bastion
Proposed category: 4B
Height difference: 500 m, route length: 610 m
Length of sections: 3 — 80 m 4 — 260 m 5 — 270 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 67° Number of pitons: – rock pitons — 20 – protection — 40
Climbing hours — 3 hours
No overnight stays
Leader: Sergey Glazunov — Master of Sports Participants: – Nina Neverova — 2nd sports category Coach: Evgeny Glazunov — Master of Sports

The route was first climbed by the team of the Irkutsk City Club of Alpinists and Climbers "Vityaz". The ascent was made in winter and was rated as a 5A category route. Our team found that sections R0–R3 in winter require laborious artificial climbing with the use of anchor pitons, pitons, and protection, while in summer a prepared group can climb these sections using free climbing.

Belyaev's team recommends the following for subsequent groups climbing the route in winter: – Preliminary processing of the first 120 m of the route is recommended. – The difficulty of the section increases immediately after snowfall.

It is recommended to climb the entire route (except for the lower part) in crampons due to snowy rocks and flow ice.

Leader: Sergey Belyaev — Candidate Master of Sports Participants: – A.N. Yakovenko — Candidate Master of Sports – Yu.E. Naiman — 1st sports category – I.N. Kon'shakov — 2nd sports category Coach: Alexander Yakovenko

Description of the Approach to the Route

The peak Baruun Vostochny is located northwest of the base camp of the "Vityaz" club in the Baruun-Khandagai gorge.

The approach to the start of the route is made first along the right side of the Baruun-Khandagai river, gradually moving left along grassy slopes. The simplest exit to the ridge of the moraine "cushion" is at its lowest part, which drops towards the camp with rock cliffs.

Then we move along the moraine along the massif of Baruun peak to the foot of the central counterfort. The route starts from a horizontal snow shelf that crosses a steep monolithic slab in its lower third.

Scheme from the archive of the "Vityaz" Alpine Club

Brief Explanation of the Scheme from the Archive of the "Vityaz" Alpine Club

R0 — From the horizontal shelf, exit onto a monolithic steep slab with a small number of holds. Cracks are often "blind" and overgrown with grass. In the upper part of the slab, move left under a steep inner corner.

R1 — Exit onto an inclined shelf on the right side of the inner corner.

R2 — Through the inner corner with a wide crack, exit onto a steep shelf. Monolithic smooth rocks with a small number of holds.

R3 — Along a steep snowy shelf, move right and exit under an inner corner. Monolithic rocks with a small number of cracks and holds.

R4 — Then, through a small shelf, exit into a wide, heavily destroyed inner corner. Along it, bypass a rock overhang on the left; there is a good ledge for belay above the overhang. Caution: many loose rocks.

R5 — Then, along the route, climb a small wall and move along a steep inner corner. Monolithic rocks, small but conveniently located holds.

R6 — Then the route goes along a steep inner corner that leads to an inclined shelf under a large overhang. Climbing with a small number of holds.

R7 — Along the shelf, traverse right and exit under a heavily destroyed inner corner; then exit onto the ridge. The section is complicated by many loose rocks.

R8 — Then move along a heavily dissected ridge to a steep inner corner that descends from the summit tower on the right.

R9 — Then climb a steep inner corner with a small number of holds and enter a wide chimney that leads to the summit. Climbing on monolithic rocks.

Descent from the summit along the ridge to the west to a saddle and then down a couloir towards the base camp (this is the start of the 3B category route on Baruun peak).