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Class of ascent: technically challenging.
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Area of ascent: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Alps, Barun-Khandagai gorge.
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Peak: Barun via the eastern ridge.
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Proposed category of difficulty: 4A.
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Route characteristics:
height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 55°, length of sections: 0–1 — 500 m, 1–2 — 90 m, 2–3 — 120 m, 3–4 — 40 m, 4–5 — 30 m, 5–6 — 200 m, 6–7 — 200 m, 7–8 — 1500 m.
Total: — 2700 m.
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Number of pitons hammered for belay: rock — 23, for progression: "slings/cams" — 11.
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Number of travel hours:
from base to assault camp — 4 hours, from assault camp to summit — 10 hours, from summit to assault camp — 1 hour 30 minutes, from assault camp to base camp — 3 hours.
Total: — 18 hours 30 minutes.
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Overnight stay: in the assault camp on the moraine is good.
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Leader: Trubnikov V.I., Master of Sports, senior instructor
- Potapov V.G., 1st category
- Cheremnykh A.F., 1st category
- Yurinsky Yu.I., 2nd category
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Team coach: Trubnikov V.I.
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Date of departure on the route: May 6, 1977
Map Scheme
Route description.
Section 0–1.
Exit from the assault camp at 6:00. Ascent to the route from the terrace on the south side of the ridge via the 4th couloir (photo 1–2). Length 500 m. Average steepness 30–35°. In the upper part of the couloir, steepness is 40–45°. Slabs are covered with ice. Piton belay into rocks protruding from under the ice and into the couloir walls — 4 pitons. We reach the ridge (photo 3).
Section 1–2.
- Further up the wall 90 m, steepness 60°.
- In the lower part — 40 m of medium-difficulty rocks, in the upper part they turn into monolithic slabs 70° (photo 4–5–6).
- Climbing is difficult with the use of "slings/cams".
- Piton belay: 9 pitons and protrusions.
- We pass directly.
- We reach a narrow ridge.
Section 2–3.
- Further alternate movement along the narrow ridge with sharp rock outcrops.
- Belay through outcrops 120 m, steepness 35–40° (photo 7–8).
Section 3–4.
- Wall 65°, length 40 m.
- Difficult climbing with piton belay and "slings/cams" — 4 pitons.
- Climbed upwards to the left.
- Then along a vertical crack 5 m long with wedging of hands and feet.
- And further descent by climbing 15 m under a gendarme in the form of a "tooth" (photo 9–10–11).
Section 4–5.
- Ascent to the "Tooth" directly — 30 m, steepness 70°.
- Complex climbing using "slings/cams" and piton belay — 3 pitons.
- Exit under the pre-summit tower (photo 12–13).
Section 5–6.
- The tower is traversed to the left with crossing in the upper
- part of the snowy couloir 45°, width 30 m.
- Exit onto rocks of medium difficulty with ledges.
- Length 60 m, steepness 60–70° (photo 14).
- Climbing of medium difficulty.
- Belay through pitons, outcrops, "slings/cams".
- Exit onto the pre-summit ridge.
Table
| Date | Passed sections | Average steepness of section | Length (by distance) | By terrain character | Category of difficulty of section | By method of overcoming and belay | Weather conditions | Time | Rock pitons | "Sling/cams" | Ice screws | Overnight stay |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4.05.77 | 0–1 | 35° | 500 m | snowy couloir. Ice on slabs. | 3 | simultaneously, alternately, pitons, outcrops | excellent | 8–6 hours | 4 | — | — | Assault camp |
| — | 1–2 | 65° | 90 m | wall, monolithic slabs. | 4 | alternately, fixed rope, pitons, outcrops, slings/cams | — | — | 9 | 4 | — | — |
| — | 2–3 | 40° | 120 m | narrow, destroyed, snowy ridge | 2 | simultaneously and alternately outcrops | — | — | — | — | — | — |
| — | 3–4 | 65° | 40 m | wall, vertical crack | 4 | fixed rope, wedging hands and feet, pitons, slings/cams | — | — | 4 | 2 | — | — |
| — | 4–5 | 70° | 30 m | "Tooth" wall, slabs | 4 | fixed rope, complex climbing, pitons, slings/cams | — | — | 3 | 2 | — | — |
| — | 5–6 | 65° | 200 m | snowy couloir. Traverse of tower, along wall with ledges. | 4 | fixed rope, outcrops, pitons, slings/cams, alternately | — | — | 3 | 3 | — | — |
| — | 6–7 | 35° | 200 m | narrow, destroyed, snowy ridge. Exit to summit. | 3 | alternately, outcrops | — | on summit at 16:00 | — | — | — | — |
| 4.05.77 | 7–8 | 35° | 1500 m | snowy slope | 2 | simultaneously | excellent weather | to assault camp 1 hour 30 minutes | — | — | — | — |
| Total: | — | — | 2700 m | — | — | — | — | — | 23 | 11 | — | — |
Section 6–7.
Movement along the narrow, destroyed, and snowy ridge alternately to the summit. Belay through outcrops. Length 200 m. Steepness 35°. Exit to the summit at 16:00.
Section 7–8.
Descent from the summit along the north-eastern ridge over snow and medium scree, to the assault camp — 1 hour 30 minutes. Weather is excellent. Rocks are dry, little snow.
Recommendations:
Number of people — no more than 4. Have a set of "slings/cams" from 3/4" to 2.5".
Pitons:
- combined channel — 5 pcs.
- combined — 5 pcs.
Group composition:
- Trubnikov V.I., Master of Sports — leader.
- Yurinsky Yu.I., 2nd category
- Cheremnykh A.F., 1st category
- Potapov V.G., 1st category
The group believes that the route corresponds to 4A category of difficulty and was in ideal condition (dry rocks, little snow), which is very rare in the Sayan Mountains. With more snowfall, the route will require more time to pass.
