Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Eastern Sayan, Kyngarga gorge.
3. Druzhba peak 2500 m via the Western ridge. Route category 2B (reference point).
4. Elevation gain 300 m, length 1020 m, average slope 18°, length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty.
5. Pitons hammered: rock 2, bolted 0, nut 0, ice 1.
6. Team's travel time — 9 hours, days — 1.7.
7. Overnights: 0.
8. Leader: Prokopyeva Galina Arkadyevna, 2nd sports category. Kirillov Sergey Anfilofievich, Master of Sports.

ASCENT REPORT

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Lyubvi peak, 2121 m. "Ice of Love" via the western couloir of the northern ridge.
3. Proposed 3Az category of difficulty (first ascent)
4. Route type: combined. elevation gain: 940 m; average slope of the entire route: 27°; average slope of the key sections:

Ascent Certificate for Zarechnaya peak via the South-West ridge

cat. 2A diff. 1. East Sayan, Tun­kin­sky ridge, Chyorny Irkut valley, section 2. 2. Zarechnaya peak, 2400 m, via the West ridge. 3. Category 2A, first ascent. 4. Route type — rocky. 5. Height difference 200 m, length 400 m, average slope 30°. 6. Pitons hammered: rocky and ... 7. Team's walking hours — 5 hours. 8. No overnight stays on the route.

Route description to Zarechnaya peak via the South-West ridge, cat. 2A diff.

Zarechnaya peak is located in the westernmost part of the Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, rises above the Bely Irkut and Chyorny Irkut rivers, on the 1st (orographic) bank of Chyorny Irkut, on the opposite side of the road. Approach from the cafe along the aufeis to the confluence, along the slope — taiga and grassy, to the rocks; height difference — 5 m 0–1 60 m, 35°, 1+ Left to right along a three-tiered ledge. 1–2 12 m. Sporty descent. 2–3 150 m, 35°, 1 — along ledges, initially left, then up. 3–4 60 m, 35°, 1 — along the ridge. 4–5 50 m, 45°, 2+ Deteriorated limestone outcrops with limited contact along cracks. Crossing left upwards above the abyss, psychologically unpleasant, 3 pitons. Crucial section. Use anchor pitons. 5–6 20 m, 30°, 1+ Left of the ridge. 6–7 30 m, 2 — Traverse right along rocks through the ridge. Descent to a ledge. General view of Zarechnaya peak from the Bely Irkut valley.

Zarechnaya 2400

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF ZARECHNAYA SEVERNAYA (2350) PEAK BY THE "GULLY OF THE NORTH-WEST SLOPE" ROUTE CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY IN WINTER BY THE TEAM OF THE IRKUTSK ALPINISM SECTION FOR THE PERIOD FROM JANUARY 4, 2020 TO JANUARY 4, 2020 Team Leader: Zhdanov Dmitry Andreevich Irkutsk 2020

I. Ascent Passport

Report on the First Ascent of

J. V. Zuun

via the South Face Buttress, Category 3B difficulty Petrashko G. A. Pryanikov S. I. www.alpfederation.ru

Bronenosets (about 2450 m) Tunkinskie Goltsy, Eastern Sayan

The summit is located in the upper reaches of the Levaya Kyngarga River. The Kyngarga River gorge has already been explored for alpinism. The peaks in this area have routes ranging from 1B to 4B category of difficulty. One of the last uncharted peaks for climbers was the Bronenosets peak. The first ascent via the North (Central) ridge was made during the Irkutsk Regional Alpinade on May 10, 1976, by a group consisting of: (see general view, photo) Head of the Alpinade MS — T.V. Trubnikova Detachment Commander — V.P. Bryansky — 1st sports category Members:

• G.A. Moskalev — CMS
• A.S. Kodachikova — CMS

Arshan (3)

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO THE "BRONENOSETS" PEAK VIA ROUTE 2B CAT. DIFF. The "Bronenosets" peak is located in the upper reaches of the Levaya Kyngarga River (Tunkinskie Goltsy; Eastern Sayan Mountains). Its height is approximately 2,450 meters above sea level. It is the last unclimbed peak in the area, due to its remoteness. The group made the first ascent of the route on May 9, 1976.

1. "Druzhba" peak
2. "Arshan" peak
3. "Bronenosets" peak
4. "Piramida" peak
5. "Obzorny" peak
6. "Bratchanка" peak
7. "9 Maya" peak

4=

Ascent Log

1. Rock class.
2. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, p.6.1.1.
3. Arshan peak (2546), East buttress of the South ridge.
4. Proposed category 2A (first ascent).
5. Height difference of the route 470 m, length of the buttress — about 500 m, average steepness of the buttress 40°.
6. Used on the route: rock pitons — 1, chocks — 1 piece.
7. Team's travel time — 3 h 14 min.
8. Leader: Khandazhapov B. A. — Master of Sports. Participants:

V. Arshan