As­cen­sion cer­ti­fi­cate

1. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Ba­ruun-Khan­da­gai riv­er gorge. Sec­tion num­ber ac­cord­ing to clas­si­fi­ca­tion ta­ble 6.1.2 — Char­s­kie Zori, 2920 m (sum­mit co­or­di­nates: 51°55′24.54″ N 102°10′90″ E), via south-east­ern coun­ter­fort of west­ern ridge

2. Dif­fi­cul­ty cat­e­gory: pro­posed 4B cat., first as­cen­sion

3. Na­ture of the route — rocky.

4. Route el­e­va­tion dif­fer­ence: 400 m

Route length: 550 m. Length of sec­tions: V cat. dif­fi­cul­ty — 60 m, VI cat. dif­fi­cul­ty — 85 m. Av­er­age steep­ness: wall sec­tion of the route — 80°, en­tire route — 60°

6. Pitons left on the route: to­tal 0

Used on the route: an­chor pro­tec­tion: 3/0, nuts 29/0, bol­lard pitons 0 / 0, none were used on the route

7. Team's lo­co­mo­tion hours: 5 h 40 min, No nights spent on route
8. Team lead: Glazunova Ekaterina Georgievna (1st sp. dis­charge)

Par­tic­i­pant: Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (CMS)

9. Coach: Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (CMS)

En­ter­ing the route from BL: 8:00, July 11, 2012. On the sum­mit — 15:30, July 11, 2012 Re­turn­ing to BL — 20:30, July 11, 2012

Re­gion re­view, sports char­ac­ter­is­tics and tac­ti­cal ac­tions of the team

Char­s­kie Zori peak is lo­cated in the up­per reaches of the Ba­ruun-Khan­da­gai gorge, Tun­kin­sky range of East­ern Say­an, be­tween the massif of Zima and Sibiryak peaks (to the West) and Monakh peak (to the East).

No clas­si­fied routes have been laid on it. The path we chose for the first as­cen­sion runs along a char­ac­ter­is­tic coun­ter­fort from the hang­ing cirque of the Kupol peak.

The coun­ter­fort is mono­lith­ic with a ярко выраженным relief in the form of ver­ti­cal in­ter­nal an­gles. The route is uni­form, with two char­ac­ter­is­tic key sec­tions.

Ac­cord­ing to the team's es­ti­mates, the route cor­re­sponds to sim­i­lar routes in East­ern Say­an of the same dif­fi­cul­ty cat­e­gory.

scheme of Khan­da­gai gorge and ap­proach path to the route:

• 3
• 4

Pho­to­panorama of the re­gion (shot from Kupol peak)

Route scheme by sec­tions

Pro­file of coun­ter­fort

9 Scheme UIAA

De­scrip­tion of the route by sec­tions R0–R1. Start of the route from the low­est part of the coun­ter­fort, from un­der the yel­low over­hang­ing wall with ver­ti­cal cracks (photo 1). Move be­hind the bend to the right along a wide crack and sys­tem of shelves. Di­rec­tion of move­ment is to­wards the ridge of the coun­ter­fort. (60 m, 55° III–IV)

1–2 Along the ridge of the coun­ter­fort, over­com­ing walls head-on. Move­ment up to the mono­lith­ic wall on the ridge. (30 m, 55–60° III)

2–3 Then move to the left side of the coun­ter­fort, by­pass­ing the mono­lith­ic wall on the left (photo 2). Move­ment along a shelf-ter­race to an in­ter­nal an­gle, from which to re­turn to the ridge of the coun­ter­fort (photo 2.1). (60 m, 60° IV)

3–4 Up­wards, slightly to the right through a se­ries of walls and shelves, to a nar­row in­clined ledge, along which to tra­verse to the left for 5 m to a wall with a ver­ti­cal crack. (45 m, 70° IV)

4–5. Along the ver­ti­cal nar­row crack, as­cend the wall (photo 3), then slightly to the right along boul­ders and an in­ter­nal an­gle to reach a large boul­der at the base of a ver­ti­cal in­ter­nal an­gle with a wide crack (photo 4). (50 m, 70°, V)

5–6. Move along the an­gle (first key sec­tion), the crack is wide (photo 5), so we pro­tect our­selves with cam­ming de­vices on the left part of the slab, where the crack is nar­rower. Then the climb be­comes eas­ier, to a shelf on the left of the base of a char­ac­ter­is­tic large chim­ney. (50 m, 90°, VI)

6–7. From the belay sta­tion, along the chim­ney (sec­ond key sec­tion), care­ful climb­ing, live rocks are en­coun­tered. This is the only sec­tion where we needed an­chors (photo 6). As­cend the chim­ney, then a se­ries of walls — shelves. Belay sta­tion on a small shelf at the base of "red­dish" rocks com­posed of live boul­ders. (55 m, 85° VI)

7–8. Along the wall com­posed of live boul­ders (photo 7), very care­fully, as boul­ders may fall out! — reach a large shelf, from which to move up­wards along a chim­ney with a se­ries of walls to the sum­mit of the ba­stion. Con­trol tour. (60 m, 80° V)

8–9 — si­mul­ta­ne­ous move­ment along rocks of av­er­age dif­fi­cul­ty in the di­rec­tion of the ridge. In the mid­dle of the sec­tion — a ver­ti­cal wall, climbed by friction. Fur­ther, si­mul­ta­ne­ous­ly, some­times al­ter­nate­ly, along eas­i­er rocks, we reach the West­ern ridge of Char­s­kie Zori.

(120 m, 55°, III–IV)

9–10 — along the ridge, si­mul­ta­ne­ous­ly, through small walls, as­cend to the sum­mit.

(150 m, 40°, II)