Мамисон

Ascent to the summit via the South-West ridge, route description, key difficulties, and necessary skills for climbers.

ULLUTAU — ALLA IYDA 1951

Traversing Peak Nikolaeva - Mamin, a challenging mountaineering traverse with elements of rock and ice climbing, with a 4A grade of difficulty.

Nikolaeva — Mamisontraverse (Combined route, category 4A) From the hut, descend to the glacier. Approach the second ular. Ascend to the left side of the rocky cape under peak Nikolaeva. Bypass the rock wall on the left. Reach the balcony of the ice axe site. Then, from the right side of the balcony, traverse left along simple rocks with a slight descent in the middle part, then left, descending to a wide shelf. Traverse 100 m to the left along the shelf and reach a large site. From the site, ascend left and upwards along simple rocks to the summit of peak Nikolaeva. From the summit of peak Nikolaeva, descend 100–150 m along simple rocks to the side, then traverse down to the saddle of the ridge between peak A and Mamisontraverse. Continue along the simple rocky ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on, to the distinct ridge of Mamisontraverse. From Mamisontraverse: — along the 50-meter East (snowy) ridge, then approach the snowy ridge. — Approach the I-st Big gendarme and bypass it with a descent on the right. — Then ascend the steep gendarme. From the gendarme: — Descend to the snowy isthmus and along the gendarmes to the East shoulder of Mamisontraverse.

Report on the first ascent of the route category 5A to the summit of [Mamison-khokh](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mamisonkhoh) in 1967 by the team from Kharkov regional council of the sports society "Avangard".

Kharkov Report on the 1967 Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship by the Kharkov regional council team of the "Avangard" sports society in the category of technically complex ascents Team Composition Kharkov regional council of the "Avangard" sports society Grigorenko-Prigoda Yuri Ivanovich Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering, engaged in mountaineering since 1956, born in 1935, Ukrainian, non-partisan Neborak Valentin Stepanovich

Climbing passport for the ascent to the summit of Mamison (4360 m) via the right part of the North face in the Big Tsey Circuit, category of difficulty 5B.

ASCENT DOCUMENT Ascent category — technical Ascent area — Eastern part of the Central Caucasus, Bolshaya Tseyskaya horseshoe Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Mamisong, 4360 m, via the right part of the North face Presumed difficulty category — 5B Route characteristics: height difference — 995 m length — 1468 m average steepness of the route — 50° average steepness of the wall section — 73°

Ascent to the summit of Mamison (4360 m) via the right part of the North face, category of complexity 5B, made by a group of climbers led by Bodnik V.N.

Ukrainian Council SDSO "Burevestnik" V. Mamison, 4360 m, via the right part of the North face. 5B Team composition: Bodnik V.N. Barsukov V.A. Derkach A.A. Kharianyk I.V. Climbing on fixed ropes. R2–R3. Climbing on fixed ropes. R10–R11.

Ascent to the summit of Mamison (4358 m) via the right part of the northern wall, a technically very difficult route of the 5th category of difficulty.

PASSPORT I. Climbing category — technical. Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. Mamisong (4358 m) via the center of the north wall triangle. Second ascent — 5B cat. tech. combined. Height difference — 820 m. Including triangle — 340 m. Length — 1200 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. tech. — 600 m. Of which 6 cat. — 130 m.

First ascent of Mamisong (4358 m) in the Eastern Caucasus via the center of the northern wall, rated as 5B difficulty grade.

I. Climbing category — technical Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range Mamisontau (4358 m) — through the center of the northern wall triangle Proposed — 5B cat. diff. combined (first ascent) Height difference — 918 m including the "triangle" — 490 m. Length — 1410 m. Length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 845 m, including 6 cat. diff. — 175 m. Sections: 3518–3534 3596–3694 3730–3770

Report by a Kyiv team on the first ascent of the central spur of the north face of Mamisontsveri in the Caucasus in 1964.

Report of the combined team of the city of Kiev on the repeated ascent of the central rib of the northern wall of the Mamisongkhok peak. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge, July 25-31, 1964 The group dedicated their ascent to the 20th anniversary of the liberation of the city of Kiev from the German fascist invaders. Brief characteristics of the Tsey mountain region and the route taken by the group The Tsey mountain region is located to the north of the Main Caucasian Range, including the peaks Nokausak-Zayne to the west and Mamisongkhok to the east. The main peaks of the region are located on the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs, which bound large glaciers: Karaugom, Tsey, and Skazsky. The most significant peaks are: Uilpata-tau Chanchakhi-khokh

Climbing report by LOS DSO "Zenit" team on ascending Mamisontsveri via the ice cascades on the north face, grade 5+.

27.12.83 Passport Ascent to Mt. Mamisong-hokh via icefalls of the North Face Ascent category — snow and ice climb. Ascent area — Caucasus, Tsey. Ascent route — “Mamisong-hokh, 4358 m, via icefalls of the North Face.” Route description: route length — 920 m height difference — 858 m average steepness — 55°

First ascent of the left icefall of the north face of Mamison (4358 m) via a Category 5B route in 1984.

Ascent Passport Category: ice and snow climb Caucasus, Tsey Gorge Mamisong, 4358 m, via the left icefall of the north face Proposed route — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent Elevation gain: 780 m, route length 1060 m. Length of Category 5B sections — 380 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60° (3820 m — 4140 m). Ice screws used: 89 Team's climbing hours — 7, days — II. No overnight stays.