35. Nikolaeva — Mamisontraverse

(Combined route, category 4A)

From the hut, descend to the glacier. Approach the second ular. Ascend to the left side of the rocky cape under peak Nikolaeva. Bypass the rock wall on the left. Reach the balcony of the ice axe site. Then, from the right side of the balcony, traverse left along simple rocks with a slight descent in the middle part, then left, descending to a wide shelf. Traverse 100 m to the left along the shelf and reach a large site. From the site, ascend left and upwards along simple rocks to the summit of peak Nikolaeva.

From the summit of peak Nikolaeva, descend 100–150 m along simple rocks to the side, then traverse down to the saddle of the ridge between peak A and Mamisontraverse. Continue along the simple rocky ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on, to the distinct ridge of Mamisontraverse.

From Mamisontraverse: — along the 50-meter East (snowy) ridge, then approach the snowy ridge. — Approach the I-st Big gendarme and bypass it with a descent on the right. — Then ascend the steep gendarme.

From the gendarme: — Descend to the snowy isthmus and along the gendarmes to the East shoulder of Mamisontraverse. — Along steep rocks to the shoulder. — To the sites on the left — bivouac.

From the East shoulder: — Simple descent along the ridge to the snowy area under the I-st gendarme of the summit ridge (passes head-on). — Under the I-st gendarme. Bypass its summit on the right, descend with a rappel to a 10-meter snowy ridge. — Then, along 60-meter steep rocks, ascend to the summit of Mamisontraverse. — Descend along the Southeast ridge.