Usen

Report on the first ascent of a Category 5A route on the buttress of the South-Eastern wall of Pik Usen in the Pamir-Alay, completed by a team consisting of Saveliev, Markevich, and Skotnikov.

Moscow Alpine Climbing Championship Technical Class Report on the ascent of Pik Usen Via the Southeastern Wall counterfort (first ascent) Ascent Passport Mountain system: Pamir-Alay Region: Karavshin Valley: Kara-Su Peak name: Usen, 4378 m

Description of the ascent route to the peak 4379 (Usen) via the eastern wall, complexity category 5A-5B, first ascent in 1987.

Passport Category — technical Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karasu gorge, Karavshin valleys. Peak 4379 (Usen) via the center of the east face. Proposed 5A–5B, first ascent. Height difference — 570 m, length — 840 m, length of sections 5B–6 cat. diff. — 270 m, average steepness 65°. Pitons driven: | Type of pitons | Quantity (1) | Quantity (2) | | :------------- | :----------- | :----------- | | rock | 74 | 20 |

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Usan (4379 m) via the crevice on the eastern wall, category 4B complexity level, in Pamir-Alay.

Ascent Passport Ascent category — technical. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range. Peak — Usan (4379) via the crevice on the eastern wall. Proposed category — 4B cat. diff., first ascent. Route length — 765 m. Length of sections with IV–V cat. diff. — 555 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 60°. Height difference — 470 m. Pitons hammered in: rock — 9, chocks — 58. Climbing hours — 12. Leader — Sergey G. Kritsuk — 1st sports category.

Description of the descent route from Peak Uson via the Rzhanoi ridge, photograph taken on July 18, 1990.

· The descent route from p. Uson along the rжаной ridge. Taken on July 18, 1990 from the perenka, altitude 3800 m, distance to the summit 600 m, 12:00, camera «Смена-7».

Description of a new 6B category route ascent via the northwestern wall of Pik Asan in Pamir-Alay.

Ascent Passport Pamir-Alay, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3 Peak Asan, via the left part of the NW wall. Proposed — Category 6B difficulty, first ascent Route type: rock Route height difference: 930 m (3300–4230) Route length: 1010 m. Section lengths: Category V difficulty – 105 m, Category VI difficulty – 710 m. Average steepness: main part of the route – 89°, entire route – 74°. Number of pitons left on the route: total – 32; including bolted pitons – 32. Pitons used on the route: bolted stationary – 32, including artificial aids – 19; removable bolted – 0, including artificial aids – 0. Total artificial points of support (AID) used – 150. Team's walking hours: 90.5 hours, 11 days. Team leader: Mohyla Volodymyr Fedorovych — Master of Sports Participants: Lavrinenko Oleksandr Vadymovych — Candidate for Master of Sports; Nikolaev Vadym Valeriyovych — Candidate for Master of Sports; Cheban Viarel Ivanovych — 1st sports category

Report on the ascent of route 6A category of complexity via the North-West wall of Pik Asan (4230 m) in Karavshin valley, made by the team of Ryazan regional federation of mountaineering and rock climbing in 1999.

— 1 — 6А 2-е μ² 4¹/² 4¹/² Peak Asan (4230 m) via the NW wall center, 6А cat., Gorbенко route, 1986. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range. Karavshin gorge. Ascent Passport Ascent plan — technical Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin gorge Peak Asan (4230 m) via the NW wall center, Gorbенко (Odessa) route, 1986, ninth ascent Cat. — 6А Height difference — 830 m. Length — 1015 m; including 5–6 cat. — 865 m, with 6 cat. — 415 m. Average slope — 78°, 6 cat. — 85°.

Description of a grade 6 difficulty route via the North Face of Pik Asan (4230 m) in the Turkestan Range of the Pamir-Alay.

Passport Rock class. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range. Peak 4230 m (Asan), center of the NW wall. 6B category of difficulty. Height difference 830 m, length 1015 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 865 m, of which 6 cat. diff. 415 m, 5 cat. diff. — 450 m. Average steepness of the route 78° (sections R0–R26, heights 3400–4230 m) and in them 6 cat. diff. 85° (260 m, 3540–3800 m, 110 m, 3890–4000 m). Pitons driven: | Piton type | Total | Driven | | :--------- | :---- | :----- | | Rock | 129 | 21 |

Description of the first ascent of a Category 6B route through the center of the NW face of Pik Asan (4230 m) in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay in 1986.

PASSPORT Rock climbing category. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge. Peak 4230 m (Asan), center of NW wall. Proposed 6B category of difficulty for the first ascent. Height difference 830 m, length 1015 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 865 m, of which 6B category — 415 m. Average slope of the route 78° (3400–4230). Of these, 6B category 85° (3540–3800, 3890–4000). Driven pitons. | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 145 | 24 | 119 |

The second ascent of the NW wall of Peak Asan (4230 m) in the Pamir-Alay, category 6, made by the team of the Kharkov mountaineering club in 1988.

Rock climbing Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range Peak 4230 m (Asan), center of NW wall 6B, second ascent Height difference 830 m, length 1015 m, length of 5–6 sections – 865 m, of which 6 – 415 m. Average steepness – 78° (3400–4230 m), of which 6 – 85° (3540–3800 m, 3890–4000 m) Pitons driven: rock 54/35, bolted 46/7+39x, chocks 191/66, x – reuse of previously driven pitons Climbing hours 36 and days 3 Overnights: 1 – four in a tent on a ledge, two in hammocks; 2 – four in a tent in a "niche", two in hammocks